New at Dall'Uva

Singing the heavenly praises of Brunello

Traveling down the 2-lane road from Montalcino to the village of Castelnuovo dell'Abate, I am stunned by the beauty of the area.  It's September and well tended rows of Brunello grapes line both sides of the road, waiting patiently for harvest after the hot summer of 2003.  Acting on a tip from Arnaldo Rossi, my Sommelier based in Cortona, I'm in search of a Brunello di Montalcino to bring home to Portland.  The family estate of Mastrojanni is my destination.

The Brunello di Montalcino DOCG region is centered on the famed hilltown known for its rich, powerful red wines made from Sangiovese grapes.  The wine estate of the Mastrojanni family is located on the southeast side near the village of Castelnuovo dell'Abate.  Stopping in the village to take in the view of the valley and nearby Mount Amiata, I hear the gentle prayer song of Gregorian Chant drifting up from below.  The monks at the 12th century Abbey of San Antimo grace the valley and nearby hills with their peaceful chant at regular intervals through the day.

"You've caught us during the harvest," says Andrea Machetti, as I pull up at the classic Tuscan stone house now used for their operations.  I know exactly what that means — it's an exceptionally busy time for the family and hired hands who help with the vendemmia, or harvest, and I fear I may be more of an nuisance than a guest. Yet, Andrea graciously accepts my visit with a hearty handshake and quickly proceeds to tell me about the history of the place.

"The Mastrojanni family dates back centuries, but they settled this knoll for Brunello production in 1974,"  says Andrea.  "We were fortunate.  The southeast exposure is superb, the micro-climate is uniquely influenced by nearby Mount Amiata, and the soils are rich in gravel and clay.  It's hard to imagine a better place to grow the Brunello clone."  I ask half-joking whether the nearby Abbey influences the wine, or just the winemaker.  He laughs,  "We believe that the terroir has a tremendous influence on the wine.  Perhaps the serenity of the sound of the Chant translates into the wine."  After tasting a few of their offerings, I'm a believer.

Mastrojanni offers a blockbuster collection of reds and a fantastic sweet wine in the Vin Santo style.  The Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 1998 has a deep, concentrated garnet red color with a classic Brunello nose of tobacco, pepper, ripe black cherry and even a touch of roasted chestnut. With the presence of well-integrated tannins, this wine will lay down well in your cellar and be optimal for drinking in 2006-2009 — but don't hesitate to open a bottle today to enjoy with a good lamb stew or Bistecca Fiorentina.  At under $40 retail, this Brunello is a steal.

My favorite Mastrojanni red is their fantastic Rosso di Montalcino DOC 2000, a ready-to-drink Sangiovese that delivers the true essence of the Montalcino area on the nose and palate.  Lots of earthy notes with black cherry and fresh violets, the wine soars on the palate with a silky texture and just the right amount of acidity and tannin.  Priced under $20 retail, this is the best Rosso I've tasted in years.  Pair with game meats, agnello scottadito (see recipe below), and aged Pecorino cheese.

For Cabernet Sauvignon lovers, Mastrojanni has released an elegant blend of Sangiovese and Cab with their Supertuscan San Pio 1999.  What a knockout.  With an intensely perfumed nose of leather and concentrated black and berry fruits, the wine immediately draws you in.  Very smooth tannins make this wine ready to drink today, and will cellar well for years.  You'll find it for about 27 bucks retail.  Try it with beef, wild boar or venison kebabs.

Completing the lineup is the glorious Botrys 1999 sweet wine made from Moscato Bianco and Malvasia di Candia varietals.  A rich, warming dessert wine with wonderful notes of figs, dates, candied orange rind and saffron on the nose.  Sweet and enveloping on the palate, Botrys is a pleasant finish for a special meal with friends.  Priced at about $46 retail for a 375 ml bottle, Botrys is heavenly when served with marbled cheeses like Crater Lake Blue from The Rogue Creamery.   

Visiting Mastrojanni.  The drive to Mastrojanni leaves me in a blissful state of mind.  Located just 9 km from Montalcino, yet deep in the true heart of Tuscany, a visit to Mastrojanni and the nearby Abbey of San Antimo will calm your soul and make you a believer.  To find Mastrojanni, just follow the signs from Montalcino to the village of Castelnuovo dell'Abate, then follow the signs to Mastrojanni.  Be sure to contact Andrea Machetti in advance to schedule a time to visit; you can reach him at +39 0577.835.681.  Need a place to use as your home base while exploring nearby Brunello and Vino Nobile wineries?  Consider Vecchia Oliviera, a charming 3 star hotel right at the gates of Montalcino (tele: +39.0577.846.028, email: info@vecchiaoliviera.com).

Finding Mastrojanni Wines. Our first shipment of Mastrojanni wines are in stock at Pastaworks on Hawthorne (tele: 503.232.1010) and inside City Market on Northwest 21st Avenue (503.221.3002). Fine restaurants like Navarre in Portland offer Mastrojanni wines by the glass as well. You can reserve one or more bottles online by clicking on the "Reserve Now" button to the right.

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Michael's Travel Notes

Traveling well on the Italian wine route.

As a frequent traveler to Italy, I'm often asked for advice by new travelers  on where to go and how best to experience Italy and its food and wines.   Traveling well in Italy, something the Italians call viaggiarbene,  is both immensely pleasurable and easy to do — if you plan a bit before you go.  Having traveled to Italy over 30 times in the past 10 years, I've accumulated some helpful ideas and travel tips that save time and multiply the pleasurable moments of a trip.  And since Dall'Uva is all about the pleasure of experiencing artisan wines and connecting you with passionate producers, I'm pleased to share my recommendations on how to maximize the magic of your next trip to Italy.

To be sure, Italy holds the western world's largest store of cultural treasures.  You can spend countless hours exploring the Uffizi in Florence, the Vatican Museum, and the Pompeii exhibit in Naples — and you should. But I find exploring the Italy of today, including its rich gastronomic culture, to be more satisfying to the soul.  If you want to explore the culinary treasures of Italy as they were meant to be and bypass the manufactured experience most tourists settle for, carry a few of my recommendations with you as you travel.  I believe you'll be much more sensually satisfied.

Know before you go.

Traveling to regions that are new to you requires a bit of advance planning if you want to maximize your pleasure while you're there.  All that's  needed is a good map, a travel guide you can trust, and a fine glass of Brunello (a Mastrojanni '98 will do) to put you in the mood.

Guidebooks.  If you know which cities you're flying into and out of, and how many days you plan to spend, mapping out an exploration path will depend on what you want to see.  Spend some time reviewing a good regional travel guidebook that is updated annually.  I find the Frommer's regional books quite useful, and Rick Steve's guidebooks offer an opinionated summary of the best cultural stops in the major regions.  Other good guidebooks include the Rough Guide series and the detailed books by the Touring Club of Italy.  For food and wine guidebooks, see my recommendations below.

Maps.  To help you gauge the distance between your planned stops, pick up a good 200,000 : 1 or better touring map (the lower the first number, the more detailed the map).  My favorite is the Atlante Stradale d'Italia series of maps from the Touring Club of Italy, but they can be tough to find here in the States.  The next best option is the Michelin Italy Tourist and Motoring Atlas #1465.  Since I drive during most of my visits, I recommend the spiral bound regional books rather than the fold-out maps. 

You'll find an overwhelming selection of guidebooks and maps at most larger bookstores.  I recommend buying them from Powell's Travel Bookstore in downtown Portland, or you can order from their online store.  You'll also find a fine selection at Amazon.com.

Itinerary Planning.  My best recommendation when selecting sites to visit is this: assume that you will return to Italy in the future. Be careful not to overbook your time; racing from site to site is not a vacation. Be sure to allocate plenty of time to relax over a fine meal each day.  Block out timeslots reserved for no particular activity and savor the uniquely Italian experience of la dolce far niente.  You'll be more refreshed and satisfied while building pleasant memories that last a lifetime.

Finding and Tasting Wines.

Tasting a selection of regional wines is one of the greatest joys when traveling in Italy.  Finding an unusual Dolcetto or a delightful Brunello from a small, out of the way producer can be a highlight of your trip.  How you pursue your tasting goals depends upon your mobility and level of interest in the producers.

One of the best ways to taste many wines from different producers is by visiting an enoteca, or wine bar.  There are two kinds of enoteche:  regionally-sponsored exhibitions of wine like the Enoteca Italiana in Siena, or the local enoteca wine bars where locals congregate to savor a glass of wine and perhaps a small plate of local salumi e formaggi.  For selection, ambiance and intimacy, I recommend local enoteche.

Finding an enoteca.  The enoteca-style wine bar scene in Italy is exploding.  You'll find dozens sprinkled throughout major cities like Venice, Florence and Rome, and many chic hilltowns will have enoteche popular with the locals and travelers in-the-know.  For example, Pane e Vino in Cortona, Tuscany (Piazza Signorelli #27, Tele: +39 0575.631.010, taverna@pane-vino.it), offers a weekly selection of 20 wines for tasting from their collection of over 800 Italian wines.  Arnaldo Rossi, Dall'Uva's resident Sommelier, and his wife Debora offer a warm, convivial atmosphere to sample some of the best wines from the peninsula.  The wines are intelligently paired with Tuscan small-plates of antipasti, primi and a few secondi lovingly prepared by Beatrice.  As an American traveling in Italy there are only two ways to learn about these prized finds: by word of mouth from people in-the-know (and from the Dall'Uva Wine Journal), or in the Osteria d'Italia culinary guidebook (see my listing of must-have food & wine travel guidebooks below).

Visiting the producers.  If you're enthralled with the romance of visiting wine producers at the source, forget what you know about the jazzy tasting rooms at American wineries.  Most producers will have at best a small tasting room where you can sample their latest bottlings and buy a few bottles porta via (for the road).  To ensure that someone is available to meet you when you arrive, you must always call in advance to make a reservation.  As a quid pro quo for taking time out of their busy schedule to meet you, most producers will expect you to purchase some wine while you're there.  While all of this may seem like a lack of enthusiasm for wine lovers, producers in Italy simply do not see the same tasting crowds that we find here in the States, and they would rather spend their time (and money) making better wines for you to enjoy.

To make a reservation at a winery, simply call a day in advance or send an email informing them of when you would like to visit.  When planning your trip, I recommend that you consult the guidebook Italian Wines co-published by Gambero Rosso and Slow Food.   In addition to listings of the current wines from thousands of producers, you'll find wine ratings, intimate background information about the producers, and their addresses, telephone numbers and occasionally their email and website addresses.  Buy a copy online at Amazon.com, or pick up a copy while you're in Italy.   If you're a wine zealot like me, you can pick up next year's Italian edition in October or November online at the slowfood.it website (they will announce the award winners for 2005 at the 2004 Salone del Gusto event in October).  The English version of the guide is released in January.

Some producers have tasting rooms that are located in nearby town centers. For example, Avignonesi produces superb Vino Nobile and knockout Super Tuscans, but you'll need to travel to the center of Montepulciano if you want to taste their wines in their tasting room.  These wonderful tasting options are somewhat rare, so if your itinerary includes visiting wineries at the source, make sure you have a rental car and a good local map (book a rental car with a no-nonsense, all-inclusive rate at SkyCars).

Getting your wine home safely.  If you plan on bringing some treasured bottles of wine back to the States, here are a few things you should know:

• How many bottles can I bring home?  Technically speaking, you can bring any number of cases of wine home with you for personal use only (see the ATF website).  If you're bringing home more than 10 cases of wine, US Customs might assume that it's not for your personal use — have a good story or risk losing it all.
• Can I ship by FedEx, UPS, or DHL?  Yes and no, and it's expensive. Expect rates for air shipping to be at least $200/case.  Few shippers will ship wine for consumers (that's you), so some shipping agents classify it as olive oil to get your wine in 'under the radar.'  However, the shipper or US Customs will seize and destroy your contraband if they find out.  My recommendation: don't do it.
• Can I check my wine with the airline?  Yes, and this is the only practical option for getting your wine home safely and quickly.  Simply have your wine bottles packed in styrofoam inserts and a sturdy box and check it with your luggage.  It's free up to the airline's checked bag limit, then typically $90/case after that.  Good wine shops in Italy sell the inserts and shipping boxes, and you can find them at Mail Boxes Etc.  Alternatively, buy them in the States before you leave and bring them with you as checked baggage.  When you check in, show the agent how well you've packed your bottles if they have any concerns about checking the wine.  And never try to check loose cases of wine — they'll break.
• Can I carry my wine on-board?  This can be a bit iffy depending upon how militant the agents are at the check-in counter, but typically you can carry about 6 bottles of wine as carry-on luggage per person in your traveling party.  Pack the bottles well and buy a cheap carry-on bag to make carrying easier.
• How do I clear US Customs?  When you arrive at the first US port, you have to clear Immigration and US Customs.  Simply mark your Immigration Landing Card as 'carrying food' and tell the agent that you have wine.  If you are asked to pay duty taxes (technically, you should), don't worry — it's less than 50 cents/bottle for most wine.  Keep your story simple: you're bringing wine home for your own personal consumption, and you won't sell or give it away.

Think Local.  Eat local.

When you're traveling in Italy, eating the local cuisine will be a memorable highlight of your trip if you know where to look.  Italian food evolved regionally, and there are few dishes that truly span the entire peninsula.  Sure, pizza can be found everywhere, but you haven't lived until you've tried the real thing in Naples.  And ragω bolognese meat sauce is superbo in Emilia Romagna, and an abomination in Venice.   Go local — you will be much more satisfied eating the cucina tipica of the area.

While much of French cuisine is about butter-based sauces served over rather complex dishes, the Italians take a more purist approach.  An Italian chef worth his salt lets the ingredients speak for themselves, using only the freshest ingredients prepared in the most simple way.  For example, the Tuscans adore the dreamy Pappa al Pomodoro, a soup prepared from diced tomato, a little ground onion, carrot and celery, and some olive oil — with a few stale bread cubes added at the end of the cooking.  In Puglia, a simple dish of boiled and purιed fava beans with olive oil makes me swoon.  And the Gnocchi con Pesto from Liguria shows just how much you can do with a few potatoes, some basil, garlic, pine nuts and a little olive oil.  Simple and humble ingredients that sing in harmony when brought together.

Finding the best local food.  Some of our fondest travel memories in Italy center on intimate meals shared with friends at small Italian osterie and trattorie that are off the touristic track.  When we travel, we always carry a current copy of Osterie d'Italia, a foodie's dream guidebook to the most genuine and honest restaurants that cook in the local style. Published and updated annually by the staff at Slow Food, this 835 page guidebook is your ticket to excellent food and wine in a convivial atmosphere.  While the book is written in Italian, anyone can find the top osterie, trattorie and enoteche in every region, with a listing of their local specialties and easy contact information.  I recommend that you buy the guidebook online at the Slow Food website, or you can try to find a copy at a bookstore while you're in Italy (note: this book sells out every year).

Another very useful guide for Italian food enthusiasts is the Ristorante d'Italia annual dining guide.  Published by Gambero Rosso, this book offers a numerical rating system that helps you find some of Italy's top-rated restaurants.  With top ratings come top prices, so if you're not in the mood to drop $100 per person on a magnificent meal, use your Osterie d'Italia guide to find superb local cuisine at exceptional prices.

When dining out in Italy, here are a few recommendations that will make your meals more pleasant:

• Make a reservation.  The restaurants found in Osterie d'Italia and Ristorante d'Italia are justly famous with the locals.  To ensure that you have a seat, it's best to make a reservation.  You can have your hotel make the call for you.
• Eat like an Italian.  Meal times vary up and down the peninsula, but the only people eating lunch at noon and dinner at 6PM are the tourists.  Dine like an Italian and enjoy a long lunch starting at 1PM, and dinner at 8 or 9PM.  For breakfast, have a cappuccino and a small pastry.  And never, ever order a cappuccino after 11AM.
• Try the local specialty.  If you're not sure what to order, let the waiter or chef (who are sometimes one and the same) select for you.  Teresa and I regularly let the house order for us — they know what's in season and ideal at the particular time of year you are visiting.  We've never been disappointed.

Blissful travel.

When you travel, be sure to immerse yourself in the daily rhythm of life in Italy.  Take your morning cappuccino and cornetto at the corner bar with the locals.  Try an assaggio of wines at a local enoteca and marvel at how the wine communicates the essence of a small patch of land and the caring hand of its maker.  Sample what's in season at a family owned osteria and say hello to the nonna in the kitchen who is sharing her prized family recipes with you.  Savor the magic of the moment.  Buon viaggio!

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Seasonal Recipes

Fall grilling - Agnello Scottadito

On our grand Veneto-to-Puglia exploration of Italy in May of 2002, Teresa and I had the great fortune to find ourselves in the small town of Norcia, nestled deep in the verdant forests of southeastern Umbria, just before the lunch hour.  Norcia is the home of all things pork and is best known for its wild boar, porcini mushrooms and truffles — all hunted and collected in the nearby forests.  Norcia is just across the border from the Italian province of Abruzzo where lamb dishes have been elevated to an art form. 

As we mill around the ancient cobblestone roads of the centro storico in search of a local trattoria, we happen across a small restaurant with a dozen small tables.  Since it is only noon, the trattoria is empty but the owner greets us and asks if we would like to make a reservation.  As we book our lunch for one o'clock, I can't help but notice the sounds and smells drifting from the kitchen just off the main room.  We peek around the corner in hopes of a glimpse of what's on today's menu.  We are immediately coaxed into the kitchen by a little nonna in her seventies, obviously the matriarch of the establishment, busy chopping up a whole lamb freshly butchered.  A wood fire blazes in the oven and the smells of rich pasta sauces permeate the room.  Whack!  "You are joining us for lunch?"  We nod a simple yes, our eyes bulging in astonishment as the nonna's strength.  "Agnello Scottadito!"  Whack!  "It's the best!"  Who are we to disagree with the wisdom of the ages?  We return at our assigned time and are treated to the most succulent lamb chops we've ever tasted, served still sizzling only moments away from the wood fired grill.

Recipe: Agnello Scottadito, or "Burn your Fingers" Lamb

Agnello (an-YELL-oh), or young lamb, has its prime season in the spring in Italy, largely because they prefer young lamb that is 8 to 16 weeks old.  Here in the States, local lamb shows up in the fall after they've had a chance to grow for 5 or 6 months.  This old world recipe for grilled lamb works fine with our American lamb chops.

While you can cook these chops in a pan or over a gas barbeque, grilling over wood or hardwood charcoal is the best.  Grilling alla brace (over coals) lends a heavenly taste that is incomparable.  Serves 6 people.

Ingredients:

	3 1/2		lbs thickly cut lamb chops		1/4		cup extra virgin olive oil
	1		sprig fresh rosemary, chopped fine				salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
	3		cloves garlic, chopped fine

Preparation:

1. Prepare a marinade by mixing the oil, rosemary leaves, and garlic in a small mixing bowl.  Spread the mixture on both sides of the chops and set them in a small, shallow pan.  Pour any remaining marinade over the chops in the pan.  It's best to let the chops rest in your refrigerator for several hours or even overnight, but it's not absolutely necessary.
2. When you're ready to grill, fire up your charcoal or cooking wood.  I personally prefer apple or cherry wood, but oak or even chestnut works well.
3. When the fire is ready and the coals are glowing, set the grill over the heat for a few minutes.  Place the chops on the hot grill and let them cook for a couple of minutes, then flip them and grill the other side.  Sprinkle a little salt and a generous grinding of fresh black pepper on the chops.  I recommend that you cook the meat medium-rare for the best flavor and tenderness — typically about 3-5 minutes, depending upon how hot the fire is and the thickness of the chops.
4. Scottadito means "burned fingers", and that's how you should serve the chops.  When they're ready, take them immediately from the grill to the table and enjoy.  Using your fingers makes them taste better.

Wine Pairing: Grilled lamb pairs exceptionally well with a rich, structured red wine like our 2000 Rosso di Montalcino from Mastrojanni.  You can also choose a good Tuscan sangiovese and cabernet Supertuscan like our 1999 San Pio, also from Mastrojanni. Pick up your lamb chops and a bottle of Brunello at Pastaworks in Portland, or reserve a bottle here on our website.