Dall’Uva Wine Journal

Sep 7, 2010

Siro Pacenti Brunello: Elegance and Innovation

by Michael Horne • Journal, Wine - Red, Wine Reviews • Tags: 3 Bicchieri, Brunello, Montalcino, Tuscany • 3 Comments

“I rarely bottle from a single vineyard; I believe that blending from my vineyards across several zones in Montalcino yields a wine of greater complexity and balance.” And so it goes with the 40-year-old Giancarlo Pacenti, the son of Siro Pacenti who took over as vignaiolo of the family winery in 1988. If you talk to produttori in the Montalcino area, you’ll find that Giancarlo has earned quite the reputation with his break from classic Brunello di Montalcino tradition, yet his wines still embody the sweet soul of Brunello and the region.

I’ve always believed that wine making can evolve and improve while carrying the best of local tradition with it. Giancarlo embodies this concept, having collaborated with the University of Bordeaux over the years, taking the best knowledge of more modern methods and fine-tuning his care of the vineyards and wine making process. For example, most Brunello producers use large Slovenian oak casks, or botte, to age their wines. Giancarlo has largely done away with them, now aging his wine entirely in small French oak barriques yielding a richer, fresher wine than his fellow Brunello producers. As you might imagine, this has rubbed Brunello traditionalists the wrong way, but it’s hard to argue with the man’s success.

The Pelagrilli Vineyard of Siro Pacenti

Elevating Sangiovese Grosso.

Brunello di Montalcino DOCG is considered by many to be more regal and elegant than it’s Chianti Classico and Vino Nobile di Montalcino Tuscan brothers. This “nice little dark one” is made from 100% Sangiovese Grosso grapes, and the Brunello clone of Sangiovese is unique to the Montalcino area and has evolved and adapted to the area’s distinct climate and terroir.

Jun 7, 2010

Quick Sips: Summer Fun with Riondo Pink Prosecco

by Michael Horne • Journal, Wine - Pink (Rosato), Wine Reviews • Tags: Prosecco, Veneto • 0 Comment

Think pink.

Go pink for the summer with a vino rosato It’s nearly summer here in the States and with the hot weather comes lighter food fare and, yes, lighter wines. All over Europe the usual reds and whites are set aside for another time, and the pink wines from the previous year’s harvest are rolled out en masse. If you’re not already a regular summer European Pink Drinker, forget what you know about pink wines. We’re not talking about “White Zinfandel” and it’s sweet cousins, the rosato wines of Italy are mostly dry – and perfect fare for the lighter dishes of summer.

I can hear the men in the crowd now: “Pink wine is for chicks.” Well, there are tens of millions of European men who would beg to differ. Granted, many of the wines are full of fruit and so fresh that they should be slapped, but when it comes to hot summer days, a big oaky red wine is not welcome to the summer dinner table. It’s like wearing a wool coat to a pool party. Park your pink perceptions for a moment and try this wine.

Bubbly and fun: Riondo Pink Prosecco Raboso NV

My wife ran across this pink gem on one hot summer day at Pastaworks wine shop in Portland; Peter de Garmo, the proprietor and long-time lover of all things Italian, sold her on the pretty bottle, saying she and her girlfriends would adore it. I enjoy a good Prosecco, but I must admit that I had reservations when I saw this lightly pink and bubbly Prosecco with it’s shiny tassel closure and the pink box it came in. Let’s face it, this producer is targeting women, but I was secure in my manhood to give it a try. Wow. On the nose it’s full of strawberry and cherry, and the palate is loaded with tart red fruits and citrus like key lime, and even has a nice watermelon finish. Unlike many Prosecco wines, this one is frizzante (lightly sparkling) and thoroughly refreshing, and at 10.5% alcohol you can drink this baby all day long.

Serve this wine cool, but not cold – at 50-60 degrees, the fruit really shows well and will delight your senses.

Perfect pairings: Serve this sparkler with grilled shrimp or scallops marinated in lime & garlic, or a salad of greens, shaved fennel, orange and walnuts. Also great as an aperitif with marcona almonds and mild, nutty cheeses like aged pecorino or parmigiano.

The price: In a wine shop, you’ll pay $10-14/bottle. Order online and it runs about $8-10/bottle. Shipping will cost you another $2-4/bottle for a case of wine. In a restaurant, it’s about $28-32/bottle. Riondo Pink Prosecco also comes in handy 187ml quarter-bottles, perfect for a porta-party and cheap at only $4/bottle.

Where to buy: Finding this wine locally is hit-and-miss, as availability varies by region and season. Ask the wine steward at your favorite wine shop if he can get it for you. Be sure to say that you want the Pink Prosecco NV, as Riondo makes a classic Prosecco as well. It’s easier to buy this wine online or over the phone. Try Empire Wine in Albany or Garnet Wine in New York City (they both ship to wherever it’s legal). If you want to work with a human being, call Peter de Garmo or his son Kevin at Pastaworks in Portland at +1.503.232.1010. Looking for more options? Click here.

May 15, 2010

Wine as Artistic Medium: The Chianti Classico of Molino di Grace

by Michael Horne • Food Pairing, Journal, Travel - Italy, Wine - Red, Wine Reviews • Tags: 3 Bicchieri, Chianti Classico, Tuscany • 2 Comments

Join me for a moment in fantasy: Imagine that you have just purchased a small plot of land deep in the heart of the Chianti region in Tuscany, with a few acres of Sangiovese vineyards and a glorious medieval-era villa ready for restoration. The rich scent of ripe red fruits and oak emanate from the botte and barrique that rest quietly in the cantina. Before you lies a canvas where you can vividly express your passions, your true essence, in the form of luscious red wines. You are now free to play.

If you’re like me, you may find yourself drifting gently through wine fantasies like this from time to time. But Frank Grace and Gerhard Hirmer found their Chianti canvas in the form of Il Molino di Grace and continue to release four dazzling reds that clearly express the artistic hand of their maker. I am excited to be able to bring in these superb Chianti and Super Tuscan wines and share them with you. And what better way is there to experience art than through a wine glass?

Apr 15, 2010

25,000 Wines to Taste? Sensory Overload at Vinitaly

by Michael Horne • Events - Italy, Journal, Restaurants, Travel - Italy, Wine Tasting • Tags: 3 Bicchieri, Veneto, Venice, Vini d'Italia, Vinitaly • 0 Comment

Michael has just returned from his annual wine hunting trip to Vinitaly in Verona, exploring Balsamico Tradizionale producers in Modena, sipping the minerally white wines of the Cinque Terre, and discovering the regional food and wine specialties around Rome. Join him as he posts installments of his new wine finds and interesting places to visit in Bella Italia this year.

“When wine takes hold of a person, it tends to sink its claws in pretty deep.”
Jancis Robinson

Verona looms.

I make checklists the evening before my flight – passport, camera, laptop, iPod and headphones. Should I bring my 2009 Vini d’Italia wine guide? That adds 3 pounds. The weather promises to be typical northern Italy weather in April: damp and cool. My Canali suit and tie, jeans, sweaters and heavy wool jacket, a collapsible umbrella. Snacks are important on a whirlwind trip like this. Almonds, chocolate, beef jerky, more chocolate. Is that it? Maybe.

I pack everything I need into my Rick Steves backpack. Backpack? Yes, you guessed it – I travel light. A rollerboard suitcase is a nightmare in Italy if you’re planning to travel by train. Don’t do it. With cobblestone streets and sidewalks, miles of stairs and few elevators, a rolly takes the fun out of your trip. This will be the first time in my 50+ trips to Italy where I haven’t rented a car, so traveling light is a must. Not everything fits, so I start tossing items out. Do I really need 3 pairs of shoes? Dressy, street casual, and hiking shoes? Absolutely. I toss out a sweater or two, and leave the Vini d’Italia behind. It’s packed pretty tight, and at 28 pounds I’m pushing the limit.

Bella Verona is home to Vinitaly My business class upgrade comes through — Score! Now I’ll be able to rest on my San Francisco to London flight so I can hit the ground running when I land at 6:30AM. I scribble notes on the 10 hour flight over as to what I want to bring back: The 2010 releases of Vini d’Italia and Osterie d’Italia guidebooks by Gambero Rosso; Special orders from the family like Pocket Coffee for Teresa, “Calabrian Death Peppers” — spicy little red devil (diavolini) peppers for my 13-year-old son Evan, and an Azzurri jacket for my 18-year-old son Andrew This year I decide not to bring home oodles of wine samples, and instead plan to have them shipped. At 3 pounds a pop, bottles of wine can weigh you down and I plan to cover a lot of kilometers on this trip, all without a car. Somehow I’ll still end up with 50 pounds of assorted Italian goodies to bring back.

Apr 2, 2010

Local Tastings in Venice: Wine Bars and the ‘Giro di Ombra’

by Michael Horne • Guidebooks, Journal, Restaurants, Travel - Italy, Wine Bars, Wine Tasting • Tags: Slow Food, Veneto, Venice • 2 Comments

It’s simply not possible to visit glorious Venezia without a little gastronomic adventure. When I stay in Venice, I prefer to experience the daily rhythm of Italian life off the beaten touristic track. One of my favorite passatempi (pastimes) while in Venice is the nightly Giro di Ombra, the Venetian equivalent of a pub crawl. While the origins of the phrase are debatable, the most plausible explanation is as follows: Years ago a small bar setup in the shadow (the ombra) of the church tower on San Marco square late in the afternoon, just before dinner. The bar served small glasses of wine and tasty local snacks to hungry Venetians on their way home from work. As the sun traversed the sky, the cart would track the shade of the clock tower — hence the phrase giro di ombra, or a “turn of the shadow.” Works for me!

Modern day Venetians still participate in this age old tradition by visiting the many small, quaint bars called bacari (from the word Bacchus, the Roman god of wine), sprinkled liberally throughout the historic center. Each night small groups of locals (and tourists in the know) travel a circuit of local bars, ordering at each stop an ombra (a small glass of wine) and munch on cicchetti, a small snack that is distinctly Venetian. Cicchetti can be small fried fish, olives stuffed with sausage, baby octopus on a toothpick, or francobolli – tiny postage stamp-sized sandwiches. It’s a pleasant way to loosen up after a long day at work (or shopping).

Mar 31, 2010

The Rapture of Sollucchero Cherry Wine

by Michael Horne • Food Pairing, Journal, Liquors, Wine - Sweet • Tags: Umbria, Urbino • 13 Comments

One of the things I love about Italy are the diverse, highly localized flavors and tastes one finds while exploring this ancient peninsula. In Italy there is no such thing as "Italian food," all dishes are highly localized. Remarkably, you will find differences within a province or even between nearby towns. Of course, wines vary dramatically up and down the peninsula, but what has delighted me in my search for unique, artisanal products is the variety of local liquors and sweet wines you will find. I make a point to bring back something truly local to the region I’m visiting, perhaps a bitter-sweet aperativo or an herby digestivo.

Enter Monte Valentino, a tiny boutique dessert wine producer nestled up in the rugged mountains of Umbria. On a winter wine scouting trip with Arnaldo Rossi, my Sommelier buddy in Cortona, he told me about this molto particolare (very unusual) red sweet wine that is infused with the fruit of the visciolo tree. So began my trek to a remote post deep in the heart of Umbria.

Making the Trek

"You won’t make it up the hill. We’ll have to pick you up at the train station," says Fabrizia Gargano, the co-proprietor of Monte Valentino, an exquisite little agriturismo (an Italian B&B) that produces the wonderful sweet Visciole cherry wine called Sollucchero, which translates literally as “I become enraptured”. Once you taste Sollucchero, you’ll understand why.

Mar 22, 2010

Traveling the Italian Wine Route, Part 3: Eating Well in Italy

by Michael Horne • Guidebooks, Journal, Restaurants, Travel - Italy, Travel - Planning, Wine Bars • Tags: Gambero Rosso, Guidebooks, Slow Food • 3 Comments

This is the third part in a 3-part series on how to plan and travel well during your next trip to Italy.

Think Local. Eat local.

When you’re traveling in Italy, eating the local cuisine will be a memorable highlight of your trip if you know where to look. Italian food evolved regionally, and there are few dishes that truly span the entire peninsula. Sure, pizza can be found everywhere, but you haven’t lived until you’ve tried the real thing at da Michele in Naples. And ragù Bolognese meat sauce is superbo in Emilia Romagna, and an abomination in Venice. Go local — you will be much more satisfied eating the cucina tipica of the area.

While much of French cuisine can be about butter-based sauces served over rather complex dishes, the Italians take a more purist approach. An Italian chef worth his salt lets the ingredients speak for themselves, using only the freshest ingredients prepared in the most simple way. For example, the Tuscans adore the dreamy Pappa al Pomodoro,

Mar 15, 2010

Traveling the Italian Wine Route, Part 2: Wine Tours and Tastings

by Michael Horne • Guidebooks, Journal, Travel - Italy, Travel - Planning, Wine Tasting • Tags: Gambero Rosso, Guidebooks, Slow Food, Travel, Vini d'Italia • 1 Comment

This is the second part in a 3-part series on how to plan and travel well during your next trip to Italy

Finding and Tasting Wines in Bella Italia.

Tasting a selection of regional wines is one of the greatest joys when traveling in Italy. Finding an unusual Dolcetto d’Alba or a delightful Brunello di Montalcino from a small, out of the way producer can be a highlight of your trip. How you pursue your tasting goals depends upon your mobility and level of interest in the producers.

One of the best ways to taste many wines from different producers is by visiting an enoteca, or wine bar. There are two kinds of enoteche: regionally-sponsored exhibitions of wine like the Enoteca Italiana in Siena, or the local enoteca wine bars where locals congregate to savor a glass of wine and perhaps a small plate of local salumi e formaggi. For selection, ambiance and intimacy, I recommend local enoteche.

Finding an enoteca. The enoteca-style wine bar scene in Italy is exploding. You’ll find dozens sprinkled throughout major cities like Venice, Florence and Rome, and many chic hill towns will have enoteche popular with the locals and travelers in-the-know.

Mar 8, 2010

Traveling the Italian Wine Route, Part 1: Planning your Trip

by Michael Horne • Guidebooks, Journal, Travel - Italy, Travel - Planning • Tags: Foodie, Guidebooks, Slow Food, Travel • 5 Comments

This is the first part in a 3-part series on how to plan and travel well during your next trip to Italy

Gastronomic ecstasy in Bella Italia

As a frequent traveler to Italy, I’m often asked for advice by new travelers on where to go and how best to experience Italy and its food and wines. Traveling well in Italy, something the Italians call viaggiarbene, is both immensely pleasurable and easy to do — if you plan a bit before you go. Having traveled to Italy over 50 times in the past 15 years, I’ve accumulated some helpful ideas and travel tips that save time and multiply the pleasurable moments of a trip. And since Dall’Uva is all about the pleasure of experiencing artisan wines and connecting you with passionate producers, I’m pleased to share my recommendations on how to maximize the magic of your next trip to Italy.

To be sure, Italy holds the western world’s largest store of cultural treasures. You can spend countless hours exploring the Uffizi Gallery in Florence, the Vatican Museum in Rome, and the Pompeii exhibit in Naples — and you should. But I find exploring the Italy of today, including its rich gastronomic culture, to be more satisfying to the soul. If you want to explore the culinary treasures of Italy as they were meant to be and bypass the manufactured experience most tourists settle for, print out this blog posting and carry a few of my recommendations with you as you travel. I believe you’ll be much more sensually satisfied.

Travel Wisdom.

Plan your travel route: Map out your path to maximize visits to cultural sites, wine tastings, and great restaurants.

Buy and use travel, food and wine guidebooks: Current-year guidebooks will save you time and help you find the best activities.

Select a home base from which to explore: Find and book a small home, apartment or hotel centrally located near your desired sites.

Plan to use cash or credit cards: Travel checks are a hassle — use cash or credit cards. Let your bank know you’re traveling, ask them to raise your daily cash advance limit to $500+, and make sure your ATM card will work overseas.

Know before you go.

Traveling to regions that are new to you requires a bit of advance planning if you want to maximize your pleasure while you’re there. All that’s needed is a good map, a travel guide you can trust, and a fine glass of Brunello (a Mastrojanni Brunello 2004 will do) to put you in the mood.

Guidebooks. If you know which cities you’re flying into and out of, and how many days you plan to spend, mapping out an exploration path will depend on what you want to see. Spend some time reviewing a good regional travel guidebook that is updated annually. I find the Frommer’s Italy country guide, and their regional books like Frommer’s Northern Italy quite useful. A particular favorite of mine, the Rick Steves’ Italy guidebooks offer an opinionated summary of the best cultural stops in the major regions. Other good guidebooks include the Lonely Planet Italy country guide, and the Authentic Italy series of guide books by the Touring Club of Italy. For food and wine guidebooks, see my recommendations below.

Maps. To help you gauge the distance between your planned stops, pick up a good 200,000 : 1 or better touring map (the lower the first number, the more detailed the map). My favorite is the Atlante Stradale d’Italia series of maps from the Touring Club of Italy, but they can be tough to find outside of Italy (I buy mine along the A1 Autostrada from Rome to Florence at one of the many Autogrill rest stops). The next best option is

Dec 9, 2009

Local Tastings in Portland: Navarre

by Michael Horne • Journal, Recipes, Restaurants, Wine Bars, Wine Tasting • Tags: Foodie, Oregon, Portland, Restaurant • 0 Comment

Lentement at Navarre

"We started with a vision of creating a convivial atmosphere where people can be real," says John Taboada, owner and chef at Navarre in southeast Portland, Oregon. Named after a small area in Gascony near the Pyrenees in France, Navarre has garnered a bit of a cult following in town. Promoting a European style of tapas bars and enoteche, the word is out that you can find extraordinarily tasty pan-Mediterranean plates paired with wonderful wines by the glass — all in a convivial, light atmosphere. John has created a focal point for warm gatherings of friends and co-workers who want to enjoy il dolce far niente (the sweetness of doing nothing).

"At a typical restaurant, the meal has a common progression: appetizers or a salad followed by a main course, dessert, and perhaps an after-dinner coffee. It’s tough for friends to join you at dinner if they’re not there from the start," says John. "At Navarre, we want people to be able to come and go seamlessly, allowing their friends to join in the meal whenever they wish. We think of it as eating laterally." Indeed, Navarre’s menu is structured as a checklist of selections from simple appetizers to more complex European regional dishes. Akin to a sushi ordering sheet, you’re presented with a rich selection of small and large plates to choose from, including a half dozen nightly specials as well. Just check off the items on the menu sheet (or write in a special) and hand it to your server. You’re handed a fresh menu list to use again on your progression through an unlimited number of courses, or even backtrack if you find an item you adore.

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