Welcome to our first episode of the Dall’Uva “Tasting Notes” Podcast!  Michael kicks it off by demystifying Italian wine classifications, helping you understand where your wine budget is best spent when you’re shopping for your next bottle of Italy’s finest wines.

Pour yourself a glass of Vino Italiano, pull up an easy chair, and join us for today’s Tasting Notes Podcast.

Tasting Notes Podcast:
VdT, IGT, DOC, DOCG… What the Heck?
Italian Wine Classifications Demystified

Episode:  1
Host:  Michael Horne, CS
Audience:  Curious – Enthusiast – Wine Geek
Duration:  about 9 minutes
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Transcript of this Tasting Notes Podcast:

Ciao, this is Michael Horne and welcome to the inaugural podcast of Dall’Uva Tasting Notes. I’m your personal Sommelier for today, and in each episode we’ll serve up some interesting stories, news and recommendations on Italian wines, food and travel.

Today we’re diving right in with an introduction to how the Italians classify their wines. I’ll help you understand the difference between these confusing classifications, and where your wine budget is best spent when you’re shopping for your next bottle of Vino Italiano.

In our next Podcast, I’ll take you on a tour of the Italian wine making regions from top to bottom, helping you learn the most popular regional wines and grape varietals grown there.  I’ll give you a few wine recommendations you can pick up at your local wine shop or online that really show off what the popular wine making regions can do.  Armed with the information in these 2 Podcasts, you’ll be able to pick some of Italy’s finest wines with confidence.

Don’t worry about writing all of this down, you can find a transcript of this podcast in our Wine Journal Blog on dalluva.com, with links to where you can find the wines and references I mention here.

OK, let’s get started.

Confuzione?  You’re not alone.

Time for a quick poll: Raise your hand if you’re confused by Italian wine names. Do you know where Chianti comes from? What’s the main grape varietal in Chianti Classico? Maybe you already know that it’s Sangiovese, but what about Amarone, one of my all time favorite Italian wines? Not so easy, and awfully confusing.

Don’t worry, you’re not alone. Most wine lovers I talk to find Italian wine names and styles confusing. Unlike most American and new world wines, Italian wines are typically named after a region, just like French wines. For the most popular wines you’re going to be drinking, the names often tell you something about the origins of the grapes and how they’re produced.

You have to do a little more research into the wines of a region if you want to know the grape varietal, but after a bit you’ll become more familiar with them and you’ll just know the grapes associated with a regional wine, like Sangiovese in Chianti and Nebbiolo grapes in Barolo.

Before we get into the most popular wines of Italy, let’s talk about how the Italians classify their wines. Following the lead of the French, back in 1963, a group of Italian winemakers got together to find a way to raise the quality standards for Italian wines, and classify regional wines according to local wine making traditions. Their goal was to give you, the wine drinker, a way to gauge the quality of a wine and determine if it was made in a consistent style and quality. The result is a 4-class system of wine rankings.

VdT classification

The first, and lowest quality standard, is VdT, which stands for Vino da Tavola, or Table Wine. Wines marked with a VdT on the label tells you they’re made in Italy, and that’s about it.

There aren’t many interesting VdT wines here in the States, as these wines are pretty much for consumption in the local region where they’re produced. If you’ve ever taken a holiday in Italy and had some of the house wine in a local trattoria or osteria, you’ve likely tasted a Vino da Tavola wine.

IGT classification

One step up from the VdT wines is the IGT classification, which stands for Indicazione Geografica Tipica — and from how it sounds, you can kinda figure out that an IGT-classed wine is "typical" of a particular geography or local region. Most IGT wines are simple, made from grapes grown locally and intended to be drank young. You’ll find many IGT wines from Tuscany that are made from Sangiovese, a grape with a long history in the region. So, think of them as a table wine — cheap and decent for everyday drinking with pasta and pizza, but not something that’s going to knock your socks off.  Now, there are some exceptions to this, and the best example are Super Tuscan wines that sound fabulous, and many are, but most are still classed at the IGT level.  I’ll save Super Tuscan wines for another podcast, all you need to know right now is that most IGT wines are basic, regional wines, something I affectionately call "Pizza Wash."

OK, now let’s get into the more interesting Italian wine classifications. There are two that you’re going to run into regularly at your local wine shop and restaurants, and this is where you’re going to spend most of you vino dollars.

DOC classification

First up is DOC, or Denominazione di Origine Controllata — boy that’s a mouthful, most folks in the industry just call it DOC. The key word here is Controllata, meaning that a wine marked DOC is produced in a specific, well-defined region in Italy, according to defined wine making rules that are designed to preserve local traditions. If you’ve ever had an Italian Pinot Grigio from the Friuli region, or a glass of Prosecco, it was likely a DOC wine.

It all sounds wonderful, except that there are literally hundreds of DOC appellations in Italy, each quite unique in their rules, so the DOC classification hasn’t done a lot to reduce confusion. One thing you can generally count on is that a DOC wine will convey a regional wine making style with specific grapes, and that the quality of the wine tends to be higher than IGT wines. As a result, the wines tend to be more expensive than IGT wines, but most are still pretty affordable.

DOCG classification

This brings us to the highest wine classification in Italy, called DOCG, where the "G" stands for Garantita — a wine that is guaranteed to follow stringent wine making rules (the full name is Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) . It’s here where you will find some of Italy’s top wines — and sometimes at top prices.  If you love Barolo, Brunello, or Chianti Classico wines, they’re all from DOCG appellations.

So what makes a DOCG wine so special? Compared to DOC wines, most DOCG rules reduce the allowable yield of grapes to produce the wine, require longer aging periods, and most importantly, a DOCG wine has to pass an analysis and a tasting by government-licensed personnel before being bottled.

And then, to prevent a wine producer from fiddling with their wine after the official analysis and tasting is completed, DOCG wine bottles are sealed with a numbered governmental stamp across the cork. The stamp is your guarantee that the Barolo or Brunello or Chianti Classico you paid dearly for was produced with strict adherence to local wine making rules.

That said, it’s not a guarantee that it’s a great wine, and you’ll find that there are some pretty unimpressive DOCG wines out there. In fact, you may find many DOC wines that you prefer over DOCG wines. You just have to get out there and start tasting to find what you like.

So those are the four Italian wine classifications – Let me summarize them for you:

• VdT wines are basic, local table wines – cheap, but pretty simple.  You find these mostly in local trattorias and osterias in Italy, and not so much here in the States.
• IGT are wines from specific geographic areas and can be pretty nice for everyday drinking;
• DOC wines are made in well defined regions and according to specific wine making rules intended to preserve local traditions; and the highest class is,
• DOCG, which includes most of Italy’s top wines and gives you a "guarantee" a wine is made to a very high standard in selected Italian regions. Most of the interesting wines you’ll enjoy are either DOC or DOCG.

OK, I think I may have you in geeky information overload, so I have some homework for you:  Take a trip to your local wine shop that has a decent selection of Italian wines, and look at the labels.  All Italian wine producers will label their wines with one of the above 4 classifications, so it shouldn’t be too hard to find.

Look for an IGT wine, and compare the label and packaging to that of a DOCG wine – DOCG is a prestigious classification, and the wine producers will often invest in a heavier bottle and nicer label.  Check out the pricing difference – IGT wines are typically pretty cheap (unless it’s a magical SuperTuscan – set that aside for another day).  DOCG?  Not so cheap.

Podcast Wrap-Up

Alright, that’s it for this episode of the Dall’Uva Tasting Notes.  In our next Podcast, I’ll take you on a tour of the most popular wines of Italy, from top to bottom of the Italian boot.  With what you’ve learned here about Italian Wine Classifications, you’ll be well prepared to shop for Italian wines with confidence.

I’m Michael Horne with Dall’Uva, and thanks for listening.

Ciao!

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Michael starts the New Year off with his go-to list of the best Italian wines of 2012 for under 20 bucks.  This is the first in a series of posts on Italian wines awarded the prestigious 3 Bicchieri (three glasses) rating by Gambero Rosso for 2012.

Keep this list handy and bookmark it for future reference, and don’t forget to Like us!

Italy’s best wines on the cheap.

Looking for great Italian wines for under 20 bucks?  There’s no need to spend $50+ to find a great bottle of wine if you’re willing to get off the beaten path and try some smaller producers in regions outside of the classic biggies of Barolo, Chianti, and Brunello.

Most Americans are looking for good wine value these days, shunning the expensive stuff and focusing on wines under $20.  The good news is that for Italian wine lovers, there’s an emerging sweet spot for delicious and interesting Italian wines in the $14 to $20 range.

Gambero Rosso, the Italian foodie club, recently released their annual Vini d’Italia wine reference guidebook (and the translated-to-English version Italian Wines in mid-2012).  Their trusted panel of Vino Italiano experts tasted over 20,000 wines from 2,350 producers (yes, that many) and awarded just 375 wines with their prestigious 3 bicchieri (“three glasses”) rating for 2012.

What do many of these lucky Italian wine producers do when they find out their wines have won a 3 bicchieri rating?  Well, they raise their prices, of course!  Unfortunately, this puts many of these stellar wines out of reach of most lovers of Vino Italiano.

Here’s the good news: not all of the winning Italian wine producers instantly raise their prices, and there are many delicious 3 bicchieri wines that stay around the $20 price point (“sotto €15” as they say in the guidebook).  For 2012, there are exactly *51* of these 3 bicchieri winners that are well within reach of Italian wine lovers like us.

Over 50 remarkable vini you’ve gotta try.

I’ve listed below all 51 of the 3 bicchieri winners of 2012 that go for $20 or less, organized by region with a link to wine-searcher.com so you can find them online.  Here are a few highlights (and personal favorites):

• For Chianti fans, Tenuta di Lilliano outside of Castellina in Chianti makes a top quality Chianti Classico 2009 for just $16 (only $14 by the case at Saratoga Wine Exchange).  This Chianti is a great value, check it out.
• The fresh, bright fruit in the Soave Classico Monte Alto 2009 by Ca’ Rugate (just west of Verona in Montecchia di Crosara) goes great with fish and fowl.  It’s a little tougher to find,  but worth the hunt (a wee bit higher at $22 as of this writing from Zachy’s).  Ca’ Rugate makes some great wines at reasonable prices, and this gem is no exception.
• How about a little Lambrusco?  Forget that super sweet, headache-inducing plonk you drank in the 80’s (ok, that was me) and try this fantastic Lambrusco Vecchia Modena Premium 2010 by the proud folks at Chiarli 1860 in the outskirts of Modena.  This little gem has wonderful, rich fruit with floral and spicy notes on the nose and palate – and only $14 a bottle at the Ultimate Wineshop.

Finding these 3 bicchieri winning wines.

Importers come and go, and some of these celebrated wines are produced in small quantities, but you should still be able to find many of them online or in shops that carry a decent selection of Italian wines.  Here are a couple of ways you can hunt down these search-worthy wines:

• Ask your local wine shop if they can get it in from the distributor or importer.  Your wine shop may not be familiar with some of these producers, and they’ll have to do some research – but if they want your business, they’ll put in the effort.
• Check wine-searcher.com, which is probably the most comprehensive search engine for wine globally.  I’ve enabled wine-searcher.com search links below to get you started, but since retailers often do not list full (proper) wine names on their websites, you’ll have to play around with the search phrase to find all retailers that carry it.
  • Example: searching for Ca’ Rugate Soave Classico Monte Alto 2009 only turns up 1 retailer (Zachy’s), but searching for Rugate Soave Monte Alto 2009 turns up 2 retailers.  To find the most options (and best prices) when searching on wine-searcher.com, use the fewest words necessary such as the producer name (Rugate), the wine name (Soave Monte Alto), and the year (2009).
  • Consider the Pro Version: If you’re like me and buy a lot of wine online, I highly recommend subscribing to the Pro Version of wine-searcher.com.  It’s $39 a year and lists 2 to 3 times more retailers than the standard (free) version – well worth the money.
• If you have trouble finding a wine, leave a comment below and I’ll try and help you find it.  If you really want to try a wine listed and it’s not imported into the US yet, I may be able to place a special order for you straight from the wine producer’s cantina.

And the winners are…

Here’s the Gambero Rosso Vini d’Italia 2012 list of 3 Bicchieri winners that retail for under $20 (“sotto €15”).

If you’d like to get your very own personal copy of the Vini d’Italia 2012 Guidebook,
click here to contact me.

Note: The wines are listed by region, from North to South, with the producer name in bold followed by the full official wine name.

Survey:
What’s your 2012 New Years resolution on vino?

It’s that time of year – did you make a New Year’s resolution about your vino drinking?  Looking to move your wine habits to a better neighborhood, so to speak?  Check out what others are doing for 2012 in our Facebook survey on New Year wine drinking resolutions.

Don’t forget to Like Us on Facebook if you’re a fellow Italian Wine Lover.

Ciao!
Michael

Thanksgiving is just around the corner, and many of you have been asking for wine recommendations for this glorious, all-American feast.  I tend to lean toward Italian wine selections for Thanksgiving, as they can be the perfect companion for a long evening of classic autumn food fare.

With most Thanksgiving meals being a kaleidoscope of flavors and textures, you can set aside classic food-wine pairing logic and just focus on selecting a couple of tried-and-true Italian wines that you and your guests will happily sip through the meal – and long into the evening.

Here are 3 of my favorite wines from Italy that fill the bill – a light sparkling white for early sipping, and a white & a red for the main course.  These are not big, heavy fruit bombs that compete with the flavors of your Thanksgiving meal – save those for Christmas, if you must.  I focus here on light- to medium-body wines, a bit lower in alcohol, that perfectly compliment the many diverse side dishes served on Turkey day.

All of these wines are under 25 bucks, and you can probably find them (or similar styles) at your local wine shop.  Buy local if you can, but if you can’t find them, you can order these wines online for quick delivery.  I’ve listed some reputable online retailers to save you time.

And now, on to my Thanksgiving picks.

Cooking with Wine:  Saracco Moscato d’Asti 2010

When I say “cooking with wine,” I’m talking about wine that goes in the cook, not in the food – and a light Moscato d’Asti is the perfect kitchen companion while you’re busy preparing the feast.   Have your guests over early and serve them this excellent Moscato, and no doubt they’ll help you with the prep.

The 2010 vintage of Paolo Saracco’s Moscato d’Asti elegantly shows off the aromas and perfumes of Moscato Canelli grapes.  The nose and palate shine with bosc pears, tart green apple, ripe peaches, and light spices – all with a pleasantly light fizziness, and low alcohol (5.5%) so you don’t become tipsy before dinner.  Most Moscato d’Asti wines like this one are off-dry, meaning not sweet but not bone dry.  Paolo’s Moscato creation is perfect as an aperitivo while cooking and sipping before the main meal.

Where to buy Saracco Moscato d’Asti 2010

Moscato d’Asti is meant to be drunk young and fresh, and that means you should buy the most recent vintage available – as of this writing, that’s the 2010 vintage.  Vintages more than a couple of years old go downhill pretty quickly.

Check with your local wine shop to see if they have it, or can get it in.  I’ve listed a few reputable retailers here that are known for fast shipping service.

Wine Recommendation: Saracco Moscato d’Asti 2010
Wine Origin:  Azienda Agricola Saracco, in Castiglione Tinella, Piemonte
Wine Style:  White, off-dry, lightly sparkling, alcohol 5.5% (yes, that low)
Grape Varietal:  100% Moscato Bianco Canelli
Wine Ratings: Antonio Galloni (Parker) gives 90 points, Gambero Rosso gives 2+ bicchieri

Online Retailers:

• K&L Wine Merchants (CA):  $14
• J.J. Buckley (CA):  $13
• Empire Wine (NY):  $14
• Wine.com (USA):  $16

A Suave Dinner Selection:  Pra Soave Classico 2009

Pra is one of my favorite Valpolicella & Soave producers, and I’m not alone – Graziano Pra’ regularly wins high praise from Antonio Galloni of Robert Parker, Gambero Rosso, Slow Food and the rest of the respected Italian wine press.

During my last wine-hunting trip to Tuscany, my Sommelier buddy Arnaldo Rossi of Pane e Vino in Cortona turned me onto the 2009 vintage of the Pra Soave Classico.  This aromatic white gushes with ripe yellow apple, crisp Bartlett pear, pleasant minerality, and a long pleasant finish – perfect for a Thanksgiving tacchino (turkey) dinner.  Buy extra bottles as your guests will adore this clean, crisp wine from the Veneto.

Where to buy Pra Soave Classico 2009

Soave Classico is another Italian white wine that likes to be drunk young – go for the 2009 vintage if possible, as I find it’s perfectly balanced now (November 2011).  It’s drinkable into 2012, so don’t be shy about stocking up – you’ll want to have bottles of this white around.  If you can’t find the 2009, the 2010 is also quite good, and it’s coming onto the market now.

Wine Recommendation: Pra Soave Classico 2009
Wine Origin: Azienda Agricola Pra, in Monteforte d’Alpone (Verona), Veneto
Wine Style: White, dry, alcohol 13%
Grape Varietal:  100% Garganega
Wine Ratings: Antonio Galloni (Parker) gives 90 points, Gambero Rosso gives 2 bicchieri

Online Retailers:

• NapaCabs (CA):  $13
• Bella Vino (FL):  $15
• Cube Marketplace (CA): $12
• Wine Exchange (CA) (2010 vintage):  $13

The Big Production:  Produttori del Barbaresco 2006

Every Thanksgiving, I pull from the cellar several bottles of my favorite wines produced by the Cooperative of local Producers in the Piemonte town of Barbaresco.  Over 50 local grape growers pool their effort and resources to produce a number of exceptional wines under the label of Produttori del Barbaresco.  Most of the wines run 25 to 50 bucks, a little high for my Thanksgiving budget of $25, but you’ll love their wines and how they complement your Thanksgiving meal.  I suggest you go with their base Barbaresco DOCG wine – I recommend the 2006, but if you can find any vintage from 2003 through 2007, you won’t be disappointed.

The 2006 Produttori Barbaresco has rich, ripe dark cherry and blackberry fruits, fennel, and subtle scents of leather and saffron – all combining in a pleasing harmony of flavors.  The wine has some depth and concentration, but it’s won’t overpower your main dishes.  It’s sure to astonish and please the red wine lovers at your Thanksgiving dinner.

If you’re willing to spend a few more bucks, check out the 2004 vintage of their Rio Sordo Riserva, one of several highly localized bottlings produced in selected years from specific vineyards around Barbaresco. You could spend months exploring all of the Produttori wines and vintages released, without breaking the bank.

Where to buy Produttori del Barbaresco 2006

There are many Produttori wines available, and it shouldn’t be difficult to find them at a reputable local wine shop.  Stick to their base Barbaresco wine, and ideally the 2006 vintage.  If you can’t find 2006, any of the Produttori del Barbaresco wines from 2003 to 2007 will work wonderfully.  If 2008 is all you can find, I’d skip it and find another Barbaresco producer with a 2006 or 2007 vintage.

Wine Recommendation: Produttori del Barbaresco 2006
Wine Origin: Produttori del Barbaresco, in Barbaresco, Piemonte
Wine Style: Red, dry, alcohol 13.5%
Grape Varietal: 100% Nebbiolo
Wine Ratings: Antonio Galloni (Parker) gives 92 points, Gambero Rosso gives 2 bicchieri

Online Retailers:

• Empire Wine (NY):  $27
• Vinopolis (OR):  $28
• Wine Exchange (CA): $28
• Grand Vin Wine Merchants (WA):  $26

Care to Share your Favorites?

These 3 selections are sure to be crowd pleasers for Thanksgiving, or anytime you’re serving fowl for dinner – but surely you have some recommendations of your own.  Share your wine picks in the comment section below, or feel free to ask a question or two.

Ciao!
Michael

Ciao!  We’re getting the word out about Dall’Uva and our Wine Journal for lovers of Italian wine, food, culture and travel.  Yes, I know, it’s shameless self-promotion — but I think that you and your friends will enjoy our entertaining and informative postings on Italian wines, and we’d love to have you follow us here and on Facebook and Twitter.

Ok, so what’s the deal?

To help us get the word out about Dall’Uva, we’re giving away free copies of Vino Italiano to 10 lucky subscribers to the Dall’Uva’s Wine Journal, our Facebook page, and our tweets on Twitter.  Vino Italiano is the must-have guide book to Italian wines, with full regional listings and with local cultural details.  The authors Joe Bastianich and David Lynch are restaurateurs, wine makers, and  Italian wine geeks who write in a fun an informative way.  Every Italian wine lover should have a copy on hand.  You’ll love this book.

Joe & David have kindly allowed Google to index a good portion of the book, and you can peruse a few chapters of their Vino Italiano online in Google books.

And how do I win a copy?

It’s easy. Starting on Monday, 27 June 2011, we will award 2 copies of Vino Italiano every week, over the next 5 weeks, through a random drawing from new Wine Journal, Facebook, and Twitter subscribers each week.

You receive 1 contest entry for each way that you follow Dall’Uva.  That’s right – you have 3+ chances to win (more on how to stack the deck below):

✓ Entry #1 – Subscribe to the Wine Journal

Click on the button to the right and enter in your email address, and we’ll register you for our always-entertaining Wine Journal.  We hate spam as much as you do, and we never share your email address, so you can register with peace of mind.

✓ Entry #2 – Like us on Facebook

We post some interesting short stories, “Quick Sip” wine tasting notes, and links to interesting articles on Italian wines, culture, travel and events.  To complete entry #2, just click on the Like button to the right.

✓ Entry #3 – Follow us on Twitter

We regularly tweet wine recommendations, neat links to wine and travel articles, live reports from our on-the-road wine tasting with producers, and pretty much whatever else is on our minds.  It’s fun and easy, just click the Follow Me button to the right.

Can I stack the deck?

Of course you can.  Increase your chances of winning by telling others about Dall’Uva, posting a Facebook comment or tweeting about us.  For each comment, post or tweet you submit, you’ll get up to 3 more bonus entries, giving you up to 6 chances to win.  Here’s how:

✓ Bonus Entry #4 – Post a Comment

This one is way-easy.  Just tell us your favorite Italian wine by scrolling down the page and posting a comment below.  I’ve started things off with a posting of my all-time favorite Italian wine (until I find something more fabulous).

✓ Bonus Entry #5 – Share a Facebook Update

Tell your Facebook friends that you’re a Dall’Uva Fan and you’ll earn a Bonus Entry.  We don’t want you to say crazy things, but you can get creative – just cut-and-paste something like this and we would be more than happy:

I’m now following the Dall’Uva Wine Journal – check it out!  http://dalluva.com/wine-journal/

✓ Bonus Entry #6 – Tweet about Us

Tweet your followers and let them know you’re a fan of Italian wines and Dall’Uva, and we’ll add one more Bonus Entry for you.  Go ahead and get creative, but here’s an easy tweet you can cut-and-paste (keep the @dalluva and #tags so we can track your tweet):

I’m now following the Dall’Uva Wine Journal @dalluva – check it out! http://dalluva.com/wine-journal #dalluva #wine #italy

And now the fine detail.

Like all contests, we have to have some basic rules.

• The contest is only open to US residents.  Sorry, we can’t ship our books outside of the US.  We’d still love to have you follow us, though.
• The contest starts on 27 June 2011 and continues for 5 weeks.  Each 1-week contest period runs from 12:00 AM (midnight)  on Monday until 11:59 PM on Sunday.  The contest ends at 11:59 PM on Sunday, 31 July 2011.   Here are the specific contest weeks (all in 2011):
  • Week 1:  Starts 27 June, ends 3 July
  • Week 2:  Starts 4 July, ends 10 July
  • Week 3:  Starts 11 July, ends 17 July
  • Week 4:  Starts 18 July, ends 24 July
  • Week 5:  Starts 25 July, ends 31 July
• Winners are announced on the Monday following the end of each 1-week contest period.  If you win, we’ll contact you directly to notify you and get your mailing address.
• We’ll ship the book to you via US media mail.  It will take from 5-15 days to get to you, depending on where you live.  Shipping is free, you pay nothing, zip, niente.
• If you win, you agree to let us mention your name in Wine Journal, Facebook, and Twitter postings.  We won’t go crazy, but we want to be able to mention your name.  Our privacy policy can be found here

What are you waiting for?

We can’t wait to start shipping off copies of Vino Italiano to our followers, so get started now by submitting your full 6 entries today.

Note:  The very cool black-and-white photos used (with permission) in this post and elsewhere on the Dall’Uva website were shot by Alessandro Puccinelli, one of the best up-and-coming Italian photographers around.  His photos are used generously in Joe & David’s Vino Italiano – reason enough to want to win this excellent book.  Alessandro is based in Pisa, and you can find more of his excellent work on his website.

Ciao!
Michael

Summer is just around the corner, and if you’re like me you’ll be looking for an excuse (any will do) for a get-together with friends and family.  Grilling steaks with the neighbors for the 4th of July?  Having a clam bake or a fish fry for Labor Day?  No matter what summer festivities you have planned, here are 5 workhorse Italian wines that are sure to please you and your guests.

My wine selections here are based on simple criteria:

1. They’re reasonably priced. You shouldn’t have to pay more than $15-25/bottle for a decent Italian wine.  Paying more means you’re likely paying for cache or marketing hype. Save your money and go with these reasonably priced bottles.
2. They’re widely available. You should be able to find reliably good wines at your local wine shop, or order them online for quick delivery.  These wines fit the bill.
3. They please all palates. It’s probably a safe bet that your friends and extended family aren’t very familiar with Italian wines, so I’m skipping the obscure and unusual wines and going with popular and food-friendly wines that are ready to drink today.

Reds that rock the house.

OK, I know that red wine fans will moan when I say this, but park your penchant for massive, tannic red wines till the Autumn season, because Summer is all about light and medium bodied reds, whites and pinks.  The last thing you’ll want on a hundred degree day is a heavy, powerful red with 15% alcohol.  Trust me on this one.

Here are two medium-bodied Italian reds that pair well with summer food fare — grilled and roasted meats, in particular.  Your party guests will love them, and they just might be good candidates for your everyday “house red.”  I keep a half dozen bottles of each of these around and pull them out for spontaneous dinners with guests.

Felsina Chianti Classico Riserva 2007

Felsina arguably makes the most popular, food-friendly Chianti Classico ever crafted.  You’ll find this very quaffable red on the menus of Italian restaurants in America everywhere.  Save yourself time searching for the perfect party red and reach for Felsina’s Riserva 2007 – you can’t go wrong.

On the nose you’ll find ripe red fruits like raspberries and bing cherries, light fennel and a hint of smokiness from the aging barrels.  The palate goes wild with more raspberry, crabapple, a touch of cranberry, and aromas of violets.  The acidity is balanced with the fruit and tannin, and the finish is smooth and long.

You’ll notice that this wine evolves beautifully in the glass over time, becoming more elegant with expanding aromas of leather and more fennel.

Felsina’s 2007 riserva is truly a classic in the Chianti style. It’s sure to be a talking point as your guests savor this wine.

Bisceglia “Gudarrà”
Aglianico del Vulture 2006

The Aglianico (“all-YAH-nee-co”) wines of the deep south are some of my favorite value reds in all of Italy.  This gem comes from Basilicata, the province located in the instep of the Italian boot where the land and the people are rugged, but the wines have a degree of power and finesse.

At the base of the extinct volcano Monte Vulture (“VOOL-too-ray”), farmers have been planting the black-as-night Aglianico grape since it was brought to the area by Greek settlers thousands of years ago. The searing hot sun of Basilicata summers makes for complex, fruit forward tastes, and the dark, volcanic red soil in the area leaves a distinctive mineral impression on the wines.

Not all that many bottles of Aglianico del Vulture DOCG make it out of Italy for sale here in the States.  Luckily for us, Bisceglia (“bee-SHAYL-yah”) is exporting  more of their production these days, and at remarkably affordable prices.

If you’re a fan of big reds, you’re going to love this wine.  Bring a glass of Gudarrà up to your nose and you’ll sense dark plum and blackberry fruits, dried savory herbs, and earth – lots of it.   Sip this jet-black wine and be prepared for the explosion: jammy dark fruits and leather, tobacco and wild fennel, lots of dark earth and a hint of violets.  Fantastic.  There’s a reason they call Aglianico del Vulture the “Barolo of the South.”

Biceglia’s Gudarrà Aglianico del Vulture 2006 is a huge value for what you get in the glass, and you can’t go wrong pulling this one out for your next barbeque.  Give it a try.

Whites born for summer.

Young white wines were meant for summer (and so are pink wines, but that’s another post).  I have two knock-out whites to recommend to you for your lighter summer meals.  You’ll want to keep drinking these into the Fall months, but they’re best enjoyed with summer food fare.

Russiz Superiore Pinot Grigio 2009

I must admit, most Italian Pinot Grigio wines are too light bodied and haven’t impressed me – until now.  This one knocked my socks off.

Russiz Superiore is a big producer in the Collio Goriziano DOC zone (Collio for short), way up in the northeast corner of Italy in the province of Friuli-Venezia Giulia.  They make a gaggle of mono-varietal wines that are quite good, but my favorite is their Collio Pinot Grigio 2009.

Take a sniff of this wine and young red apples, bosc pears and carnation flowers immediately hit you.  I’m content just to enjoy the nose on this wine, but it invites you in for much more.  On the palate you’ll find all that fruit, plus honeydew melon and a tartness of lime that give it a crisp flavor that pairs wonderfully with summer food fare.

One thing you’ll note with this wine, and most Friuli wines, is the significant minerality.  The growing region was submerged in the Mediterranean in ancient times, and the soil today has layers of limestone, sandstone and clay that pleasantly come through on the palate.

Pinot Grigio is super-easy for pairing with food.  If you’re frying or grilling shrimp, fish, or chicken, this vino is the bomb.  I use Russiz Pinot Grigio as a perfect pairing for pre-dinner antipasto – roasted red peppers, bresaola, mild and creamy cheeses, marinated artichokes.  Pair it with gnocchi con pesto or any pasta dish with clams or mussels, it’s a great alternative to Ligurian white wines (which also love to party).

If you’re a Pinot Grigio fan, and I know many of you are, you’ll adore this wine.

Vietti Roero Arneis 2009

OK fellow wine lovers, if you’ve every tasted a Roero Arneis wine before, raise your hand.  Hmmm.  Anybody?  Bueller? Not too many have tasted this obscure native Italian grape varietal, but that’s about to change.  You’ve gotta give this pretty white a try.

If you like my more elegant Russiz Pinot Grigio recommendation above, think of Vietti Roero Arneis as its more fresh, extroverted friend – the perfect guest everyone likes to have around at a party.  Crisp green apples, grapefruit, and pears come through on the palate of this off-dry (not sweet) white, and the nose has sexy (yes, sexy) hints of mint and jasmine.  If you’re a fan of Pinot Grigio or like Sauvignon Blanc, you’ll fall in love with Vietti’s Roero Arneis.

Roero Arneis likes to be consumed young, so it’s perfect for summer food fair so long as you’re drinking the latest vintage.  Pair this lovely with anything you’d pair with Sauvignon Blanc – Grilled and roasted chicken and game birds, sautéed scallops, anything with goat cheese, and summer vegetable dishes like insalata caprese, grilled peppers, roasted asparagus.  This even goes with many Tex-Mex dishes.

Enlighten and impress your guests by adding Vietti Roero Arneis 2009 to your shopping list.  I’m pretty sure you’ll become a lifelong fan of this wine.

Oh, and don’t forget dessert!

I love my next recommendation, and so will you.  Trust me, just buy it.  I don’t import it, but it’s probably the most amazing sweet wine in all of Italy (some of my producers will cringe when they read this).

Donnafugata Ben Ryé 2007, 2008

Off the southern coast of Sicily, smack dab in the middle of the Mediterranean and a stones throw away from rebellious Tunisia lies the tiny, sirocco-swept island of Pantelleria.  This island is heavenly to visit on holiday in July and August, but there’s a drying wind that constantly blows late in the fall, desiccating the Zibibbo grape (think Moscato) grown here into nearly raisins.  It gets so windy here that the wine producers grow the grapes in low, circular bundles to protect the grappoli (bunches) from being knocked off the vine.  This is extreme wine making at its most passionate, and Pantelleria has a long history of making mind-blowing sweet wines.

Donnafugata makes about 10,000 bottles of this rare and extraordinary wine, which they named Ben Ryé, from the Arabic “Son of the Wind”.  The nose has a whole lot going on, with sweet spices, brown sugar and stone fruits wafting up from the glass.  On the palate it’s a kaleidoscope of flavors – apricot, grilled peaches, vanilla, baking spices,  and remarkably balanced acidity that makes for a not-too-sweet experience.  I drink this as a dessert in itself, but you can pair it with panna cotta, crème brulee, or just dip little almond biscotti in it.  If you’re into bleu cheeses, pair them with Ben Ryé.

Both the 2007 and 2008 vintages are fantastic, so pick up whichever one you can find. If this wine doesn’t blow you away, I’ll turn in my Sommelier certification.

Care to share your favorites?

I’ve listed 5 dependable, delicious Italian wines, but no doubt you’ve run across some that you really like.  Care to share them with the rest of the class?  Take a minute and post your favorites in the Comments section below.

Hey!  We’re now on Facebook! Come visit us and if you like what you’re reading there (and here), then Like us and tell your friends!

Ciao!
Michael

So you want to be a Sommelier?

After 250 hours of training at the French Culinary Institute by Master Sommeliers Alan Murray and David Glancy, hundreds more hours fighting eye strain while studying the Sommelier’s wine bible Sotheby’s Wine Encyclopedia, and swishing 500+ wines across my palate from nearly every wine producing region on the planet, I was granted the honor of sitting for the full Certified Sommelier exam proctored in the spring of 2009 by the London-based Court of Master Sommeliers. It was fun, challenging and stressful, but I earned my pin.

Getting to the Certified level is tough enough, but some courageous oenophiles continue on to the Advanced Sommelier level, and a tiny number make it to the rarified world of Master Sommelier.  As of this writing, there are only 180 of these magical Master Sommeliers in the world, and it’s no wonder – the Court weeds out the non-serious by making it an invitation-only exam, and most Master Sommelier wanna-bees take 3+ attempts to pass this mother-of-all wine exams, if ever.  Let’s put it in perspective:  In 2010, of the 104 people who sat for the Master Sommelier exam worldwide, only 3 passed.  Wow.  Bluntly put, it’s a bitch to become a Master Sommelier, and only the best make the grade.

The good news is that Sommeliers support and nurture their own.  Here in the States, a few of our finest Master Sommeliers had the brilliant idea of forming a Guild of Sommeliers as a way to help budding Sommeliers hone their tasting skills, build world wine knowledge, and encourage them on their(crazy) journey toward Certified, Advanced and Master certification levels.  It’s self-funded by the Sommelier community, and their website offers the best learning material, and active forums for vino Q&A sessions.  If you have a puzzling question about wine, someone at the Guild will know the answer, no matter how esoteric.

Sip. Swish. Spit.

If you’ve never listened to a Master Sommelier wax eloquently about a wine, you’re going to find this fascinating.

Master Sommelier Geoff Kruth and the fine folks at the Guild have launched a new series of monthly audio Podcasts on wine tasting technique and producing regions.  They promise a host of other fun topics sure to entertain any vinophile like you and me.

What’s entertaining about these podcasts is the natural flow of the Master Sommelier conversation.  There’s no dumbing-down here, it’s raw tasting experiences and wine geekery at its finest.  I love it.

The list of Master Sommelier Podcasts can be found on their Podcast website, and you can also find the latest on the Guild Blog (account required), where you can post comments and questions on the Podcast content discussed.  You can also subscribe to the Podcasts by searching for “Guild of Sommeliers” in the Podcast section of  iTunes and have them pushed to you automatically when they’re released.

There have been 3 podcasts to-date, listed here most-recent first:

1.  Geek Speak: Listening to Master Sommeliers taste wines blind

You’re a fly on the wall as newly-minted Master Sommeliers Matt Stamp, Jason Heller, Dustin Wilson, and Brian McClintic progress through a blind tasting of 4 wines.  This is the classic banter of Sommeliers who try to narrow down the characteristics and origins of a wine-in-a-bag.  Listen to how the team processes differences of opinion on the third wine tasted by Jason, a wine that otherwise has straightforward markers (about 24:50 minutes into the podcast).  Sometimes a wine can be “vague,” and even Master Sommeliers can disagree and miss a wine entirely.

Listen to the Blind Tasting Podcast here.

2.  The ascendant wines of Sicily –
Etna Rosso anyone?

Take a tour of Bella Sicilia with Master Sommeliers Geoff Kruth of Farmhouse Inn and Matt Stamp of French Laundry, joined by bubbly vinophile Shelley Lindgren from A16 and long-time importer of Siciliani wines Oliver McCrum, as they peruse the historic island’s most interesting wines.  The team goes wild for the rosso wines of grumbly Mount Etna, and explore the Nero d’Avola- and Frappato-based wines of Faro and Noto.  Sicily is really getting its wine-act together, and this Podcast gives you a great starting point for your own vino exploration.

Geoff also shares some photos of the Etna vineyards in his Guild blog post – check them out here (registration required).

Listen to the Sicily Wines Podcast here.

3.  Tasting wines over, and over, and over…

The Guild’s inaugural Podcast is a bit rough with some echo and acoustic issues, but it’s a great intro to the tasting deductive process that all Sommelier candidates need to master.  Geoff Kruth, Matt Stamp (fresh off winning the TopSomm 2010 award), and Jason Heller take us through a handful of typical wines, demonstrating how to calmly dissect them and converge on the “call” – naming the varietal, region, sub-region and year.

The first 2 wines tasted, a white and a red, are exactly the kind of “typical” wines you would taste on your Certified Sommelier blind tasting exam.  Note how easily the tasting evaluation flows from Geoff, a highly articulate taster.  With practice and tasting lots of wines, anyone can master this deductive process.

Listen to the Inaugural Tasting Podcast here.

Aspiring to be a Sommelier?

Have a listen to these Podcasts, and if you get excited about all the wine geekery and just gotta know more, send me a note in the Comments section below, or ping me by email.  I can help answer your questions and put you in contact with someone who can help you get started on the path to becoming a Certified Sommelier.

Cin cin!
Michael

When it comes to wine and food, Italy has an abundance of special places, events and celebrations, and we’ll share some of our favorites with you in our “Local Scene” series.  In today’s Wine Journal, Michael takes you to Venice to peruse some of the best seafood that Italy has to offer.

“Pesce fresco! Pesce fresco!”

Nearly every town in Italy has its Market Day when regional and traveling vendors display their best and sell to the locals.  The origins date back to the time before the convenience of supermarkets and automobiles, when it was more profitable for vendors to travel to where the wealthy city dwellers lived.  While today it’s easy to make the trip down to the nearby iperCoop supermarket, Italians still shop the stands, carts and trucks of the venditori on Market Day.

Enter the Rialto Fish Market in bella Venezia, where the local pescatori (fishermen) bring their finest fish to one of the largest and oldest fish markets in Italy. Open Tuesday through Saturday from 7:30AM till about 1PM (the pescatori take Sunday and Monday off), locals and ristoranti owners alike flock here daily to find what’s-in-season and what’s-for-dinner.  The covered market opens in the wee early hours of the day, rain or shine, and the social scene is exciting to watch.

Rows of Venditori busily arrange and replenish their latest catch in a daily contest to see who has the most handsome selection, barking “Pesce fresco! Pesce fresco!” (PAY-shay, “fresh fish!”) to get your attention.  Venetians make it a point to catch up on the latest gossip with their neighbors over a cappuccino (or a glass of local vino) and cornetto (Italian croissant).  Pigeons slink around gobbling up whatever fish parts hit the cobblestone.  It’s a ritual you can’t miss on your next trip to Venezia.

While on a wine-buying trip for new and interesting wines in the Veneto, I dropped into Venice to catch up with my buddy Roberto at Pensione Guerrato, and join the colorful parade of locals for a tour of this rightly famous Fish Market,  located just a few short blocks west of the Rialto bridge in Campo Pescheria.  Take a stroll with me through the mercato today, and let’s see what’s on the menu for tonight’s dinner.

1.  Swimming in Alici (Anchovies)

These babies are everywhere at the Rialto Fish Market.  Young, succulent anchovies, called Alici (ah-LEE-chee) in Venice and Acciughe (ah-CHOO-gay) elsewhere, are a mainstay throughout the coastal regions of Italy.  In Venice you’ll find them grilled; personally I like them flash fried in olive oil, like they make them in Genoa – fresh, crisply, salty little “fries with eyes” that you pop in your mouth, head and all.

2.  Divine Sgombro (think Mackerel)

Sgombro are small mackerel that are the perfect size and ready to grill over hot coals.  Local osterie serve these by the ton because they’re plentiful and cheap (here at about 3 bucks a pound), and they’re perfect food fare while in Venezia.

3.  Dining on Mormora (Sea Bream)

Considered the poor man’s Orata, the Mormora is a striped member of the Sea Bream family, a white fleshed fish found along the rocky coastline of the Veneto and Emilia-Romagna.  These 1- to 2-pound fish are perfect for roasting or grilling over coals.

4.  Dinner for two — Orata (Sea Bream)

The Orata (also called Gilthead Porgy or Daurad here in the States) was sacred to Aphrodite in ancient times, and is today among the most sought-after variety of Sea Bream in Italian markets.  They’re fatter and meatier than the Mormora and the Porgy of the US east coast, with richer, more dense flesh. Venetian ristoranti grill, roast and steam their Orata whole, making a perfect meal for two – albeit a bit expensive here at $16/pound retail.

You’ll find the “Vive di Mare” sign proudly displayed on fish harvested from the open Mediterranean waters by Pescatori that want you to know it’s fresh and healthy, and not farmed unnaturally in a cage.

5.  Colorful, sweet Cappesante (Sea Scallops)

The scallops from the northern Adriatic sea are sweet and minerally, and they don’t come any fresher than this.

6.  Cappesante ready for broiling (Sea Scallops)

Ristoranti in Venice prep these sweet scallops by removing them from the shell, rolling the whole thing in bread crumb with a hint of minced garlic, and replace them in the shell with a dab of butter beneath them.  The cuoco places them under the broiler until the scallop meat just turns white, and not a moment longer – then serves them to you on the half-shell.  Heavenly.

7. Fish Monger prepping Scampi

The Fish Mongers at the Rialto Market really work their butts off.  Imagine having this guy’s job, handling fish for 12+ hours a days, 5 days a week.  This busy professional is up by 3 AM to load up his delivery boat with the latest catch, then spends another 10 hours cleaning, prepping, cutting and arranging all manner of fish, crustaceans and mollusks.

And tomorrow he gets up and does it all over again.

8.  Fresh, sweet Scampi

Not to be confused with gamberi (“big” shrimp), these scampi look and taste a lot more like lobster meat.  There’s not much there, but you’ll swoon over a fresh plate of steamed scampi at a local Venetian osteria.

9.  Canocce, the oddball shrimp

OK, these buggers look like something out of prehistoric times.  A fellow travel buddy of mine always says, “the uglier the fish, the better it tastes.”  That must go for crustaceans as well.  These centipede-looking “shrimp” are the sweetest, most succulent I have ever tasted.  Local trattorie serve them by the plateful.

10.  Tonno, king of the Mediterranean (Tuna)

I love tuna.  The only problem is that it’s endangered in many fish runs, and the Mediterranean blue fin is one of them.  This fish is intensely flavorful, and a favorite throughout Italy.  The scarcity is reflected in the price, here at $15/pound.

11.  Tackling the big Tonno

Another Fish Monger busy tackling a tonno for the local patrons.  Fewer Italians are eating tuna these days because of concerns of fishery viability, but demand is still strong enough to bring these big fish to the markets.

12.  Tonno steaks ready to grill

Tuna steaks – and now you know why people love this succulent fish.

Visiting the nearby Rialto Vegetable Market

Not to be outdone, the fruttivendoli (fruit and veggie vendors) setup shop at the adjacent Rialto vegetable market, with mountains of tantalizing vegetables from the nearby island of Sant’Erasmo and elsewhere in the Veneto region.

13.  Bouquet of Carciofi (artichokes)

The famous Violetta Carciofi, costing a buck a piece, arranged artfully and ready to be trimmed, steamed and eaten by hand.

14.  Castraure (baby Artichokes) to die for.

The best of the best, baby artichokes are called “castraure” (pronounced cass-trah-OO-ray, and literally translate as “castrated”) and are the most tender. They’re the side shoots of the plant, nipped young and before the fuzzy choke has developed. You boil/braise/steam these babies, drizzle a little olive oil or butter on them, and pop the whole thing in your mouth.

15.  So many kinds of Radicchio.

Italians love their radicchio, and they grow an immense variety. My favorite is the speckled Radicchio Castelfranco.  Note the phrase “nostrano” used to denote truly local produce, grown by the fruttivendolo herself.

There is so much more to the Rialto fruit and vegetable market, which has it’s own seasons and rituals.  You’ll have to experience it for yourself on your next visit – a must-do itinerary item while in Venezia.

What’s your favorite market?

Have you visited other Fish and Vegetable Markets of note in Italy?  What about in Roma, or Milano?  Have you visited the San Lorenzo all-year vegetable and meat market in Firenze?  Share your experiences, let us know what really jazzed you up and maybe we can do a follow-up posting on your favorite Italian market.  Add your thoughts and comments below.

If you haven’t already, don’t forget to Subscribe to the Wine Journal so you get notified of our regular updates on Italian wine, food and culture.

Ciao!
Michael

Ever since the Dall’Uva team set up shop and opened our doors in 2004, we’ve been connecting Italian wine lovers like you with some of the best Italian wines we can get our hands on. It’s a lifelong passion of ours, some would call it a mania, and there’s no doubting that we get excited when we find new, artisan crafted Italian wines for you to taste and enjoy. It’s a new year and we’re taking our passion to the next level with some pretty cool changes around here.

Freshening things up a bit. Have a look around and you’ll notice our website makeover.  We’re re-launching dalluva.com with an enhanced Wine Journal, promising more wine reviews of the best Italy has to offer and streamlining how you can find and buy them. Since we know you love Italy as much as we do, and probably travel there (or plan to someday), we’ll keep posting our vino travel stories and share the inside-scoop on how best to explore the Italian wine regions and meet some of the most passionate wine makers on the planet. Follow us and we’ll keep you informed and entertained with our periodic posts.

Want to buy direct from us? After years of direct importing and selling our wines wholesale to our restaurant and retail partners, we’ve decided to make our best Italian wine finds available directly to you, our fellow lovers of Italian wines. In the coming months we’ll be opening the online Dall’Uva Wine Shop where you can peruse our portfolio and buy directly from us. Think of us as your personal importer. Subscribe to our Wine Journal or follow us on twitter and you’ll be the first to know about our grand opening.

Something to go with that Vino Italiano. Since man cannot live by wine alone (or something like that), we are expanding our importing to include some rare and interesting Italian foods and vino paraphernalia like Zalto glassware.  We’ll be partnering up with fellow passionate importers, like Portland-based Provvista run by Joe Guth and crew – lifelong foodies who know how to locate the best artisanal food and ingredients that Italy has to offer.  It’s all about enhancing your wine tasting and jazzing up your meals.

On the road again…

We’re off to Bella Italia again on April 5th, sipping our way down the peninsula. Here’s our travel agenda:

We kick off this month’s trip with 3 hectic days at Vinitaly 2011 in Verona (April 7-10),  sampling this year’s best wines from our producers, and hunting for new and interesting reds, whites, sparklers and sweet wines to bring back to your table this year. Let me be your virtual guide to this massive wine event. I’ll be posting pics and tweeting notes on exciting finds along the way, so follow us on twitter for the fun.

Post-Vinitaly, I’ll be prowling the Cinque Terre along the sun drenched Italian Riviera, tasting this year’s prized whites and the rare and elusive Sciacchetrà (pronounced shah-kay-TRAH) sweet wine. With a little luck, I’ll bring back an allocation of the region’s minerally white Cinque Terre DOC wine for your summer sipping, and a bit of Sciacchetrà to savor with your friends. I love these quirky wines, and you will too. I even have a line on a local and rare red wine from tiny producer Cheo in Vernazza that may find it’s way to our store – stay tuned.

OK, back to work!

It’s a labor of love and we’re excited about the changes going on at Dall’Uva.  We have a lot to do, and we’re thankful that you enjoy following us.

Interested in knowing something in particular about Italian wine, the regions, and the customs?  Do you have a special wine you’ve tried in Italy that you want us to hunt down for you?   Give us a shout below, tell us about it, we’d love to hear from you.

Ciao!
Michael

Fanfare for Vino Italiano

This is it.  Gambero Rosso has released their indispensible Vini d’Italia (Italian Wines) guidebook for 2011.  If you’re a serious fan of vino Italiano, you’ll want to add this to your library (see below for how to find the guidebook).  Each Fall the tasting crew at Gambero Rosso releases this 500+ page collection of concise Italian wine recommendations, highlighting the best from over 20,000 Italian wines with their famed “Tre Bicchieri” (3 glass) award.  With 402 winning wines this year, 32 of them hitting the big-time with 3+ rating,  you could spend a year cruising through the list and sampling some of Italy’s finest wines.  Over the next few weeks I’ll highlight a few of my personal favorites for 2011 and how to find them.

Of all the Tre Bicchieri winners, which are the must-taste red, white and bubbly wines for 2011?  Gambero Rosso goes out on a limb and identifies, in their minds, the pinnacle wines in their respective categories.  As of this writing (December 2010), none of the three wines I’m reviewing have hit the store shelves here in the States, but their importers are busy coordinating shipments and I promise they’ll arrive in the coming months.  You can pre-order some of these online; others you’ll need to hunt down.  If you need help, talk to one of the owners of the better Italian wine shops here in the States, they can usually get it for you as soon as it’s available and ship directly to you.  The folks at K&L Wine Merchants in San Francisco, Pastaworks in Portland, and Italian Wine Merchants in New York will take good care of you.

Astonishing White:
Köfererhof A.A. Valle Isarco Sylvaner R 2009

I was stunned when I heard that Gambero Rosso’s top billing for the Best Italian White of 2011 went to a wine made from the non-descript Sylvaner grape varietal.  Sylvaner? Really?  We’re talking about a grape with a sordid past, most popular in Germany as a bland blending grape and found in the hangover-inducing wine Liebfraumilch.  Setting aside my biases, what Günther Kershbaumer of Köfererhof has accomplished with Sylvaner is nothing short of astonishing.  Using 100% Sylvaner grapes from old vines as a blank canvas, his Valle Isarco Sylvaner R (the “R” stands for Riserva) has remarkably intense apricot, peach, kiwi and flowers on the nose and palate, a distinctive mineral finish characteristic of the Valle Isarco where the grapes are grown, and a pleasing acidity – all in elegant balance.  If you like whites with generous fruit, you’ll adore this wine.

Finding and buying. First the good news – Köfererhof’s Sylvaner R won’t set you back much, running about $25-35/bottle in the store.  Now the not-so-good news – you’ll have to patiently wait for this superb white to show up here in the States.  When it does show up, you’ll want to buy quickly as this small production estate probably won’t export much of the Sylvaner R 2009 to the States, given the top billing and attention this wine has received.  With only 160 cases made, I doubt there will be much left by the end of 2011.  You can check for online availability here, or contact one of the three wine shops I mention in the intro section above.

While you’re waiting. You can still buy Köfererhof’s Sylvaner 2008 (the normale version) online here.  This older sibling to the Sylvaner R 2009 is delicious, loaded with stone fruits, mint and flowers, and a has a nice mineral finish.  It’s easy on your wallet, too, running about $16-22 right now in stores (Gary Vaynerchuk’s winelibrary.com has it for 17 bucks).  Stocks are probably getting low as of this writing, so order now and drink through 2012.

Visiting Köfererhof. You can visit Günther Kershbaumer’s tiny (5 hectare) Köfererhof estate outside of Bolzano in Alto Adige if you’d like to taste his Sylvaner, Riesling, and other small production wines.  As this is a small operation, be sure to email or call Günther in advance to setup a time to visit (tele: +39.347.477.8009).  While you’re in the area, check out the beautiful and nearby Novacella Abbey nestled amongst the vineyards – you’ll be singing the praises of Sylvaner wines before you know it.

Gregarious Bubbly: Le Marchesine Franciacorta Brut Secolo Novo 2005

Who says the Italian’s can’t outdo the French in sparkling wines?  (I can hear Robert Parker grumbling as I type.)  Under the care of Giovanni Biatta, Le Marchesine’s Gran Spumante rivals some of the best Champagne I’ve tasted.  We’re not talking about Prosecco here.  Made from hand selected Chardonnay grapes and produced in the metodo classico (classic method, similar to the Champenoise style) required of all Franciacorta sparkling wines, this dry sparkler will knock your socks off.  The aroma is highly perfumed and aromatic, with a complex nose of white peach, dried apricot, flowers and spices.  On the palate it is divine, with plenty of length and fine balance. The spuma is lovely, with very fine bubbles that persist nicely.  If you’re a fan of France’s best sparkling wines, you’ll enjoy this lovely Franciacorta.

Finding and buying. As of this writing, you’ll have to a wait a few months for Le Marchesine’s Brut Secolo Novo 2005 to show up in the stores, but it’s worth the wait.  Given pricing in Europe, this should come in around $50-65 a bottle in the US.  In spite of Le Marchesine making over 30,000 cases of Franciacorta every year, this wine doesn’t see broad distribution here in the States.  I recommend you check for online availability here, or contact one of the specialty wine shops I mention in the intro section above.  This may be tough to find, but worth the hunt.

While you’re waiting. Le Marchesine makes a lovely non-vintage Franciacorta that will please your palate while you’re patiently waiting for Secolo Novo 2005.  Their Franciacorta Brut NV runs around 25 bucks.  Liberty Harbor Wine Merchants has it available online as of this writing.  Winechateau.com also stocks Le Marchesine’s Millesimato Franciacorta 2003, and as of this writing you can find it on their website for a steal of a price: $28/bottle.

Visiting Le Marchesine. Though small by some standards, Le Marchesine has quite an interesting operation.  You can visit them, with a reservation in advance, at their Passirano location (near Brescia, due east of Milano about an hour). Contact them by filling in their online request form (best way), or call them at +39.030.657.005.

Aristocratic Red:
Biondi Santi Brunello Riserva 2004

Simply put, this is one classy wine.  However, I have to warn you – plan to part with some serious cash to taste Franco Biondi Santi’s latest masterpiece.  This aristocratic producer put Brunello on the map, with a remarkable history dating back to 1865 when Clemente Santi produced their first award-winning red (Brunello) on the Greppo family farm.  Franco follows traditional vinification and aging in large, neutral casks, yet his style is powerfully distinctive.  His 2004 Riserva has a luscious, fruit-driven character with ripe red cherries and raspberry, floral hints of violets, and a earthy mineral note characteristic of Montalcino wines.  While a Biondi Santi Riserva can rest for at least 10 years before approaching anything close to its full potential, you can (and should) open one in 2011 to savor this phenomenal wine.  Given its youth, I recommend you decant the wine and let it sit for an hour or two before drinking.

Finding and buying. You’re going to wince at the price: pre-arrival it’s running around $350/bottle, but should settle down a bit later in the year.  I don’t usually recommend wines in this price range, but this is a wine you’ll reminisce about for years after you drink it.  The fine folks at The Rare Wine Company have it for $345/bottle pre-arrival as of this writing.  By mid-2011 you should be able to find this Riserva at specialty wine shops throughout the US.

While you’re waiting. Keep your taste buds busy with Biondi Santi Brunello Annata 2003, their excellent normale Brunello released in 2008. You can find it in stores today for about $140/bottle.

Visiting Biondi Santi. With these prices, you might even consider a trip to the Biondi Santi tasting room just outside of Montalcino and buy direct.  I know it sounds crazy, but with availability today, prices more than $100 cheaper per bottle in Italy, and knowing the wine has been well cared for, the money you save on a case may just pay for your entire trip.  For the inside scoop on bringing wine back into the States with no shipping cost, check out one of my earlier posts.

Want Your Own Copy of Vini d’Italia 2011?

For enthusiasts of Italian wines, you’ll want your very own copy of Vini d’Italia 2011.  Yes, it’s entirely in the Italian language, but the simple 1/2/3 glass rating system, easy index for finding producers and wines, and master summary of all Tre Bicchieri wines make it simple to find new and exciting Italian wines to experience in 2011. You can order it online on the Gambero Rosso website here, or if you’d like to order a copy through me, fill out this request form.

Prefer an English version? Gambero Rosso publishes an English language version of Vini d’Italia called “Italian Wines,” but it takes a while for them to get the books printed and into the States.  Right now they’re scheduled to arrive and ship via Amazon.com on June 30, 2011.  Last year’s 2010 Edition is still available here.  While speaking Italian helps, I prefer the latest Italian edition simply because it’s available 6-9 months before the English edition arrives.  If you like your wine information fresh and can’t wait, order a copy through me.

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Do you have questions on where to buy these wines?  Do you have other favorites on your 2011 wish list?  Submit your questions/comments below and we’ll respond directly to you.
Ciao!  –Michael

“I rarely bottle from a single vineyard; I believe that blending from my vineyards across several zones in Montalcino yields a wine of greater complexity and balance.”  And so it goes with the 40-year-old Giancarlo Pacenti, the son of Siro Pacenti who took over as vignaiolo of the family winery in 1988.  If you talk to produttori in the Montalcino area, you’ll find that Giancarlo has earned quite the reputation with his break from classic Brunello di Montalcino tradition, yet his wines still embody the sweet soul of Brunello and the region.

I’ve always believed that wine making can evolve and improve while carrying the best of local tradition with it. Giancarlo embodies this concept, having collaborated with the University of Bordeaux over the years, taking the best knowledge of more modern methods and fine-tuning his care of the vineyards and wine making process.  For example, most Brunello producers use large Slovenian oak casks, or botte, to age their wines.  Giancarlo has largely done away with them, now aging his wine entirely in small French oak barriques yielding a richer, fresher wine than his fellow Brunello producers. As you might imagine, this has rubbed Brunello traditionalists the wrong way, but it’s hard to argue with the man’s success.

Elevating Sangiovese Grosso.

Brunello di Montalcino DOCG is considered by many to be more regal and elegant than it’s Chianti Classico and Vino Nobile di Montalcino Tuscan brothers.  This “nice little dark one” is made from 100% Sangiovese Grosso grapes, and the Brunello clone of Sangiovese is unique to the Montalcino area and has evolved and adapted to the area’s distinct climate and terroir.

(Find out more about the origins of this clone on Tom Maresca’s blog post).  Siro Pacenti develops more complex and elegant wines than most Brunello producers by taking advantage of the distinct local climate differences around the Montalcino hill town. “We blend grapes from our northern vineyard in Pelagrilli where there are fewer hours of sunlight and the grapes tend to ripen more slowly, with grapes from our southern vineyard in Piancornello where intense sunlight and more maritime winds contribute power and complexity to the wines,” explains Giancarlo.

Interestingly, you will find varied opinions of Giancarlo’s wines depending upon where the taster stands.  Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate gushes on Giancarlo’s 2004 Brunello, giving it 97 points, which makes sense when you consider that Wine Advocate tends to favor wines made in the more international style.  However, Gambero Rosso’s Vini d’Italia (Italian Wine), a necessary reference for any serious Italian wine fan, tends to favor classic regional wine making methods and has only awarded two out of three bicchieri to Siro Pacenti Brunello wines for the last few years.  For the American palate, I favor Siro Pacenti’s wines as an elegant introduction to the essence of Brunello while highlighting what can be done to exalt the unique virtues of Sangiovese Grosso.

Tasting Notes:
Siro Pacenti Brunello and Rosso Wines

Nothing demonstrates Giancarlo’s brilliant innovation better than a tasting of his wines. I had the pleasure of sitting down with Giancarlo at Vinitaly to taste his elegant riserva 2004 “PS” and 2005 Brunello and 2008 Rosso wines.  While these wines have not yet arrived in the States as of this writing, the Brunelli hold great promise and are well worth the wait.  In the interim, Giancarlo’s 2004 normale Brunello and 2007 Rosso wines are drinking well now and are great options available throughout the US – see my retailer recommendations below.  (N.B. cool bottle photos compliments of David Gettenberg at Englewood Wine Merchants).

2004 Siro Pacenti Brunello di Montalcino PS.
Giancarlo Pacenti is best known in Montalcino for taking exception with the local wine making tradition of using Slovenian oak botte for aging, yet his 2004 riserva ”PS” Brunello adopts more closely the classic production methods.  While still spending the required 36 months in wood for riserva status, in this case mostly new French oak, Giancarlo selected a single, old-vine plot near the Pelagrilli estate for his PS wine, his first-ever single vineyard Brunello.

The bottle we tasted had been open for an hour or so, and the wine shows a fresh, fruit-driven nose that is rich in ripe plum and black cherry. In the mouth the elegance of the wine comes through, and while the 2004 PS will need a few years to evolve, already the flavors and aromas are well articulated.  I was struck by the seemingly endless progression of sensations, with dense fruits of blackberry, currant, black cherry and pomegranate.  Spice from the fruit and oak were subtle and pleasing, with light vanilla and a hint of nutmeg, and some floral notes of violet and fennel drift through the senses.  Even with a good amount of tannin and the characteristic high acidity of Sangiovese, the silky texture of the wine is very pleasing and the finish goes on and on.

Pairing, finding and buying: As with refined, elegant Brunellos like this, you’ll want to pair the wine with rich meat dishes like T-bone steaks grilled over wood, wild boar stew, leg of lamb roasted rare, and dark meat birds like pheasant. This lovely Brunello will set you back a bit, retailing for about $90-120 when it becomes available in stores later in 2010.  Pre-order it now online at Carlo Russo Wine for about $100/bottle.  After mid-2010, I recommend checking online here for the best price. While the wine is a joy to taste and contemplate today, it would be wise to let it evolve in the bottle and cellar it for a few years.  (UPDATE: See my update below in the Comment section on where to find this wine today)

2005 Siro Pacenti Brunello di Montalcino.
You won’t mistake Giancarlo’s 2005 Brunello for either the 2004 PS or normale Brunello wines, yet it’s an interesting and pretty wine bursting with red berries and plums, a nose with floral notes of violet and rose, and a soft finish with medium length. Giancarlo views this vintage as “ready to go now,” although a year or two of aging might balance out the fruit.  Few wines can be called seductive, but the forward fruit, medium body and floral notes will seduce you into buying a case or two.

Pairing, finding and buying: The softer, medium body of this wine will pair well with ribollita, bean soups, and tomato-based sauces.  Try it with a meat-based pasta sauce like Bolognese ragu on paparadelle.  As of this writing, the ‘05 Brunello is only available by pre-order – you can stand in line at K & L Wines for about $75/bottle, a decent price. When more broadly distributed, this wine should run $50-80/bottle. In late 2010 you should be able to find more online options by searching here.  If you just can’t wait to try Giancarlo’s Brunello, I recommend you try his excellent 2004 Brunello normale (not the PS).  It will run you about $70-80/bottle, and you can find it online here. (UPDATE: See my update below in the Comment section on where to find this wine today)

2008 Siro Pacenti Rosso di Montalcino.
I like the Rosso wines of Montalcino as a great way to taste the essence of Brunello and its maker’s style, without having to shell out $60-100/bottle.  Giancarlo makes his Rosso by blending wine from his younger vineyards with casks of Brunello that may not hold up to the mandatory oak aging requirement of Brunello.  Think of it as a second selection of barrels that don’t quite make the Pacenti Brunello standard – still a delicious wine for just $20-35/bottle retail.  While most “baby Brunello” wines should be drunk within 2-3 years of release, a few of Giancarlo’s Rosso di Montalcino wines still drink well after 5-10 years.

After a strong showing with his standout 2007 Rosso (buy it if you can find it), Giancarlo’s 2008 can’t quite meet the standard set by his previous “baby Brunello” vintage.  That said, the 2008 Rosso presents pleasing notes of red cherry, herbs, a touch of coffee and black pepper on the nose, and delivers a pleasant burst of fruit on the palate.  The tannins are a bit rough and heavy, more than you might expect for Rosso, but Giancarlo has still done a very good job and this wine will please enthusiasts for the next several years.

Pairing, finding and buying: The 2008 Rosso pairs well with lighter fare like pork loin chops grilled over wood or charcoal, rabbit braised cacciatore style, and with pasta dishes with tomato-based sauces. Dare I call this a burger wine?  I’m sure Giancarlo would disapprove, but frankly the rougher tannins in this Rosso makes it a pretty good pair with fatty beef.  A good, all-American burger (not lean) grilled rare would be a heavenly with the 2008 Rosso.  This wine will run you about $20-35/bottle retail, and as of this writing the only online retailer who is taking pre-orders is Zachys.com for $35.  This wine should be more broadly distributed in the fall of 2010, check here for the latest availability.  In the mean time, I highly recommend you buy and enjoy Giancarlo’s 2007 Rosso di Montalcino which runs about $26-30/bottle retail.  Buy the 2007 Rosso here.  (UPDATE: See my update below in the Comment section on where to find this wine today)

Visiting the Siro Pacenti Winery

If you’re in the Montalcino area on your next trip to Tuscany, the Pacenti family welcomes visitors if you give them a little notice. Giancarlo’s cantina is located at his home northeast of Montalcino and easily reachable off the picturesque via Cassia SR2 that winds through the Val d’Orcia.  From Siena, follow SR2 south about 40km, then take a right onto route SP45 about 2 km past the medieval borgo of Buonconvento  (Hungry? Try the Bistecca alla Fiorentina at Ristorante Da Mario at Via Soccini, 60 in Buonconvento, a delightful gem you’ll find in my Osterie d’Italia guidebook recommendation).  After driving 5 km on SP45, you’ll see signs for the tiny town of Pelagrilli and Azienda Siro Pacenti; take a left at the junction and drive the winding road for 2 km where you’ll see the entrance to Siro Pacenti.  Their address is loc. Pelagrilli, 53024 Montalcino, Italy.  Since most Italian producers don’t have elaborate tasting rooms like American wineries, you’ll need to make an appointment.  You can reach the family via email, or call them at +39.0577.848.662, or on Giancarlo’s mobile at +39.335.361.469 .

Ciao!
Michael

Think pink.

It’s nearly summer here in the States and with the hot weather comes lighter food fare and, yes, lighter wines.  All over Europe the usual reds and whites are set aside for another time, and the pink wines from the previous year’s harvest are rolled out en masse.  If you’re not already a regular summer European Pink Drinker, forget what you know about pink wines.  We’re not talking about “White Zinfandel” and it’s sweet cousins, the rosato wines of Italy are mostly dry – and perfect fare for the lighter dishes of summer.

I can hear the men in the crowd now: “Pink wine is for chicks.”  Well, there are tens of millions of European men who would beg to differ.  Granted, many of the wines are full of fruit and so fresh that they should be slapped, but when it comes to hot summer days, a big oaky red wine is not welcome to the summer dinner table.  It’s like wearing a wool coat to a pool party.  Park your pink perceptions for a moment and try this wine.

Bubbly and fun: Riondo Pink Prosecco Raboso NV

My wife ran across this pink gem on one hot summer day at Pastaworks wine shop in Portland; Peter de Garmo, the proprietor and long-time lover of all things Italian, sold her on the pretty bottle, saying she and her girlfriends would adore it.  I enjoy a good Prosecco, but I must admit that I had reservations when I saw this lightly pink and bubbly Prosecco with it’s shiny tassel closure and the pink box it came in.  Let’s face it, this producer is targeting women, but I was secure in my manhood to give it a try.  Wow.  On the nose it’s full of strawberry and cherry, and the palate is loaded with tart red fruits and citrus like key lime, and even has a nice watermelon finish.  Unlike many Prosecco wines, this one is frizzante (lightly sparkling) and thoroughly refreshing, and at 10.5% alcohol you can drink this baby all day long.

Serve this wine cool, but not cold – at 50-60 degrees, the fruit really shows well and will delight your senses.

Perfect pairings: Serve this sparkler with grilled shrimp or scallops marinated in lime & garlic, or a salad of greens, shaved fennel, orange and walnuts.  Also great as an aperitif with marcona almonds and mild, nutty cheeses like aged pecorino or parmigiano.

The price: In a wine shop, you’ll pay $10-14/bottle. Order online and it runs about $8-10/bottle.  Shipping will cost you another $2-4/bottle for a case of wine.  In a restaurant, it’s about $28-32/bottle.  Riondo Pink Prosecco also comes in handy 187ml quarter-bottles,  perfect for a porta-party and cheap at only $4/bottle.

Where to buy: Finding this wine locally is hit-and-miss, as availability varies by region and season.  Ask the wine steward at your favorite wine shop if he can get it for you. Be sure to say that you want the Pink Prosecco NV, as Riondo makes a classic Prosecco as well.  It’s easier to buy this wine online or over the phone. Try Empire Wine in Albany or Garnet Wine in New York City (they both ship to wherever it’s legal).  If you want to work with a human being, call Peter de Garmo or his son Kevin at Pastaworks in Portland at +1.503.232.1010.  Looking for more options?  Click here.

Join me for a moment in fantasy: Imagine that you have just purchased a small plot of land deep in the heart of the Chianti region in Tuscany, with a few acres of Sangiovese vineyards and a glorious medieval-era villa ready for restoration. The rich scent of ripe red fruits and oak emanate from the botte and barrique that rest quietly in the cantina. Before you lies a canvas where you can vividly express your passions, your true essence, in the form of luscious red wines. You are now free to play.

If you’re like me, you may find yourself drifting gently through wine fantasies like this from time to time. But Frank Grace and Gerhard Hirmer found their Chianti canvas in the form of Il Molino di Grace and continue to release four dazzling reds that clearly express the artistic hand of their maker. I am excited to be able to bring in these superb Chianti and Super Tuscan wines and share them with you. And what better way is there to experience art than through a wine glass?

Fantasy in tandem

Frank Grace had visions of buying a charming villa in Tuscany as a retirement base where he could relax and indulge his passion for sculpture, art and the cultivation of emerging artists. As the CEO of an international relocation firm and an avid art collector who divides his time between San Francisco and London, Frank was blessed with the opportunity to buy Villa Castagnoli, a 1000-year old property with a distinguished history as a medieval watchtower located just outside of Panzano deep in the heart of Chianti. With the villa came 60 acres of land, including two vineyards planted with vibrant and productive vines. Frank pondered what to do with the grapes — sell them to other producers, or create his own wine. With the characteristic luck of a charmed life, Frank was introduced to Gerhard Hirmer by the former owner of Villa Castagnoli, and so began an enchanted journey creating some of Chianti’s most exciting wines.

Sharing a common passion for contemporary art, excellence and beauty, Frank and Gerhard immediately hit it off. "Frank and I agreed from the start that the wines must be of extraordinary quality and richly express the individuality of the soil and superb exposure of the vineyards," says Gerhard. Having retired in Tuscany with his family and children after traveling the world as an international banker, Gerhard is intimately familiar with how the Panzano terroir elegantly influences a wine, having produced his own wines there for 17 years. To complete the team, the pair were joined by Franco Bernabei, a close friend and master oenologist with superb 3 bicchieri (The 1-2-3 glass ranking system of Gambero Rosso) successes at Felsina, Fontodi and Fazi Battaglia, and notable 2 bicchieri wines at Selvapiana. With total dedication to beauty, excellence and the art of winemaking, Il Molino di Grace was born.

While Frank and Judy Grace led the renovation of the 10th century villa and Franco was busy working his magic in the cantina, Gerhard managed the new venture. It was his dream job, one where he could savor the day-to-day challenges. "Back when I was in banking, it was incredibly stressful and lacking in challenge," recalls Gerhard. "I asked myself, ‘is that all there is?’ I felt a great deal of unrest, like I needed a change. In big business you sometimes give up a part of your self, a part of your soul. The stress and toughness ended up dominating my professional and personal life."  Gerhard now greets each day’s challenges with enthusiasm as he works with kindred souls under a common cause: creating the most elegant wines in Chianti.

Tasting Notes: Molino di Grace

Molino di Grace offered its first Chianti Classico with the modest production year of 1998. With total production potential of 130,000 bottles (about 11,000 cases), the team chose to limit their offering to just a few wines that best show the potential of the terroir and the winemaking team. The 2005 Chianti Classico (1 bicchiere on the Gambero Rosso scale) is their baseline normale with pleasant aromas of dark fruits like plums and blackberries, and mineral notes of flint on the palate.  There’s a game and leather undertone on the nose that’s quite pleasant, and on the palate the classic dark cherry and tannins of Sangiovese come through clearly. The superb 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva (1 bicchiere) is more evolved and exhibits spicy notes with a rich scent of wild fennel. Completing their trio of Chiantis is the very limited production 2005 Chianti Classico Il Margone (3 bicchieri), a richly concentrated wine with notes of ripe black cherry and a touch of pencil lead, exhibiting balanced tannins and just the right amount of acidity. The 2005 is rare and not available in the US as of this writing, but the 2001 Il Margone (a 2 bicchieri wine) is excellent and its peak right now.  At the pinnacle of their creativity is the stunning 2004 Gratius (3 bicchieri), a Sangiovese in purezza (pure Sangiovese) Super Tuscan that is garnering rave reviews. You’ll find an elegant bouquet of ripe red and dark fruits like black cherry, coffee and a touch of cocoa powder, with firm tannins and a finish that keeps going on and on. Gratius is one of my favorites in the region and reflects the brilliance of this wine making team.

Pairing Molino di Grace Wines with Food.
Beyond a doubt, you’ll want to pair Molino di Grace’s 3 Chianti Classico wines with rich red meat dishes like the succulent Bistecca Fiorentina, a 2+ pound T-bone grilled over hardwood and served rare — the quintessential Tuscan dish found at osterie and ristoranti throughout the region. One of my favorite pairings of Chianti is with beef steak served tagliata style. Simply grill your favorite cut rare (like flank or top sirloin) then slice it on the bias into thin strips and briefly sauté them in a bit of olive oil, whole black pepper corns, fresh rosemary and salt to taste. For rabbit fans, the Chianti Classico 2005 normale would go well with rabbit in a cacciatore style. And for the elegant Gratius 2004, look no further than a savory lamb dish. Pair it with a boneless leg roasted Abruzzi-style, or with chops grilled over hardwood and rosemary wands.

Visiting Molino di Grace.
Located just off the strada Chiantigiana (state route 222) that winds its way through the heart of Chianti from Florence to Siena, you’ll find Molino di Grace a few kilometers from Panzano on the road leading to Radda. From Panzano just follow the signs to the hamlet of Il Volano – Lucarelli and you’ll find the molino (windmill) clearly visible from the road. Be sure to contact Gerhard Hirmer in advance to schedule a time to visit; you can reach him via email, or call him at +39 055.856.1010. You will find more information about Molino di Grace on their website. Need a place to use as your home base while exploring nearby Chianti wineries? Check out Vescine Il Relais del Chianti, a lovely 4 star hotel in a medieval borgo just outside Radda in Chianti (tele: +39.0577.741.144).

Michael has just returned from his annual wine hunting trip to Vinitaly in Verona, exploring Balsamico Tradizionale producers in Modena, sipping the minerally white wines of the Cinque Terre, and discovering the regional food and wine specialties around Rome.  Join him as he posts installments of his new wine finds and interesting places to visit in Bella Italia this year.

“When wine takes hold of a person, it tends to sink its claws in pretty deep.”
Jancis Robinson

Verona looms.

I make checklists the evening before my flight – passport, camera, laptop, iPod and headphones.  Should I bring my 2009 Vini d’Italia wine guide?  That adds 3 pounds. The weather promises to be typical northern Italy weather in April: damp and cool.  My Canali suit and tie, jeans, sweaters and heavy wool jacket, a collapsible umbrella.  Snacks are important on a whirlwind trip like this.  Almonds, chocolate, beef jerky, more chocolate.  Is that it?  Maybe.

I pack everything I need into my Rick Steves backpack.  Backpack?  Yes, you guessed it – I travel light.  A rollerboard suitcase is a nightmare in Italy if you’re planning to travel by train.  Don’t do it.  With cobblestone streets and sidewalks, miles of stairs and few elevators, a rolly takes the fun out of your trip.  This will be the first time in my 50+ trips to Italy where I haven’t rented a car, so traveling light is a must.  Not everything fits, so I start tossing items out.  Do I really need 3 pairs of shoes?  Dressy, street casual, and hiking shoes? Absolutely. I toss out a sweater or two, and leave the Vini d’Italia behind.  It’s packed pretty tight, and at 28 pounds I’m pushing the limit.

My business class upgrade comes through — Score! Now I’ll be able to rest on my San Francisco to London flight so I can hit the ground running when I land at 6:30AM. I scribble notes on the 10 hour flight over as to what I want to bring back: The 2010 releases of Vini d’Italia and Osterie d’Italia guidebooks by Gambero Rosso; Special orders from the family like Pocket Coffee for Teresa, “Calabrian Death Peppers” — spicy little red devil (diavolini) peppers for my 13-year-old son Evan, and an Azzurri jacket for my 18-year-old son Andrew  This year I decide not to bring home oodles of wine samples, and instead plan to have them shipped.  At 3 pounds a pop, bottles of wine can weigh you down and I plan to cover a lot of kilometers on this trip, all without a car.  Somehow I’ll still end up with 50 pounds of assorted Italian goodies to bring back.

Planes, trains and automobiles.  And water taxis.

I’m off to Vinitaly, my annual pilgrimage to the world’s biggest wine trade show.  People “oooh’ and “aaah” when I tell them I’ll have 25,000 wines to taste from when I get there.  While it’s a pretty cool and sexy show, Vinitaly is grueling and hard on the body.  With one million square feet overflowing with every conceivable wine from every corner of the Italian boot, you have to plan out your visit or you’ll simply wander around for miles, seduced into tasting countless wines from 4200 wine producers, and perhaps a little estate pressed olive oil.  And maybe some prosciutto. And a little truffled pecorino.  Sounds like heaven, but I need to get some work done.

Vinitaly will wait a few days while my body acclimates to the +9 hour difference from the West Coast. For now, my destination and home base is Venice, where I will immerse myself in Venetian culture and explore nearby islands.  Verona is just 60 minutes away from Venezia by Frecciarossa (red arrow) express train, yet I’ll be far away from the crowd of 150,000 people expected to flood Verona for the 5 day show.

Upon arrival at the Venezia Santa Lucia train station, I usually walk the winding streets to my hotel, having memorized the alleys and bridges that take me to my friend Roberto’s quaint Albergo Guerrato near the Rialto fish market.  If you’re new here, you can just follow the yellow arrow signs per San Marco or per Rialto, working your way through the neighborhoods where the Veneziani live and work in this watery wonderland.   Roberto is full-up this time, so I’m staying at the Westin Europa e Regina near Piazza San Marco and I’m tired after 18 hours of flights and trains, so I hop on the #2 vaporetto, Venice’s mass transit system that moves tens of thousands of locals and tourists daily in and around the Venetian lagoon.

Elegant decay.

A ride on the vaporetto down the Grand Canal gives me a front row seat to the most elegant palazzo-viewing in Italia.  The lavish homes facing the canal date back to when Venice was the world’s richest city, frescoed in vibrant reds, blues and yellows and trimmed in gold-leaf. Many exteriors have not been touched in 100+ years, as strict laws prohibit any changes. Lovely for us, but maddening for their owners.  My favorite on the canal — the elegant and ornate Ca’ d’Oro (House of Gold) — offers 3 bellissime balcony designs demonstrating the best of Venetian Gothic architecture, a blend of classic Gothic architecture with Byzantine styles.  In its glory days, Ca’ d’Oro was painted and its columns and ornaments heavily gilt, a stunning lady on this grand canal.

Becoming popular in a flurry.

On my first evening in Italy, I drop my bags at the hotel and hit the narrow walkways and damp piazzas of bella Venezia.  The best remedy for jetlag is plenty of sunshine, fresh air and lots of walking on your arrival day.  I have a few hours to burn before my 8PM dinner date with a plate of fresh grilled lagoon fish at Osteria al Mascaron.  I’ve made a ritual out of visiting Piazza San Marco, perhaps the most jaw-dropping, film-gobbling central square in in all of Italy.  Napoleon called St. Mark’s Square "the finest drawing room in Europe."  Ok, so there’s no sofa or a ceiling, but the cafe seats on the square, dueling quartets playing Vivaldi, and a carpet of hungry pigeons create an ambiance that is distinctly Venetian.

Did I mention pigeons?  Piazza San Marco is home to over 40,000 of them, delighting visitors and confounding locals by day, and roosting on the grand palazzi around the perimeter of the square by night.  I must admit, I love the pigeons. Vendors sell bags of corn seed, and feeding the mob of hungry pigeons is the most fun you can have in Venice for a Euro.  Hold out your hand with a little corn seed and you’ll be covered in pigioni within seconds.  One of my favorite pigeon antics is to throw a handful of corn at the feet of unsuspecting children, then watch the shrieks of joy and giggles as hundreds of pigeons crowd around their feet.  But on this trip, the vendors are gone. Outlawed years ago elsewhere in the city, Mayor Massimo Cacciari has now banned the sale of pigeon seed in the square.  But Venetian traditions die hard – somehow people are still feeding the pigeons, flaunting the threat of hundred-Euro fines while local polizia casually look the other way.

Looking for loose wine.

After dozens of trips to Venezia, I’ve learned to navigate this town by landmark.  Getting to Osteria Al Mascaron from St. Mark’s Square requires me to thread my way through calli and over ponti (narrow walkways and bridges), like a mouse in a maze. Along the way, I stop at a favorite wine shop deep in the Castello district.  There’s not a bottle of wine for sale here, but you can load up your own bottles or demijohn with sfuso, the Italian term for “loose wine” – regional red, whites and sparklers with a lot of local character, sold by the liter.  Think “2 Buck Chuck”, only a hell of a lot better wine and it’s sold portar via (take away) style.

The Veneto region is home to surprisingly diverse wine varietals.  Perhaps best known for Prosecco, Valpolicella, Amarone, and Soave Classico, you can taste some surprisingly good wines from International varietals like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris.  If you wander the back streets of Venice during prime afternoon shopping time (4-7 PM), you’re bound to stumble upon a sfuso shop filled with demijohns in wicker baskets and hoses lined up on a table – all ready to fill your own bottles or jars with fine regional wines for one to two Euros a liter.

If you’re serious about buying (or brazen, like me), the shop owner will give you a taste.  Just ask “vorrei un assaggio, per favore” (“I’d like a little taste, please”) and point to the most interesting demijohn of the lot.  The Valpolicella Ripassa, a famous wine made from the local Corvina, Rondinella, and Molinara varietals in the Verona area, is only 1.70 Euro/liter and is surprisingly good.  “Who makes it?” I ask the shop owner.  Who knows, and it doesn’t really matter.  It could be a regional consorzio, a mom-and-pop shop, or a well-known producer.  Nearly every wine producer in Italy makes at least a little sfuso.

If you haven’t packed your empty bottles this trip, you can visit a local bacaro (Venetian wine bar) during the giro d’ombra daily happy hour and toss back a tasty local red or white sfuso wine for perhaps one Euro a glass.  House wines in Italian osterie and trattorie are almost always sfuso, and almost always delicious – and cheap.  Dive into this truly Italian experience and enjoy wine like a local.

“You must have our crabs.”

Osteria al Mascaron is a Venetian institution.  Named after the grotesque mask (mascaron) carved over the door of the bell tower of the nearby Santa Maria Formosa renaissance church, this old Inn and its ancient namesake are intended to provide a safe haven from evil spirits.  These days it’s run by gracious Gigi and Momi, friends who go way back and took over managing this osteria in 1978.  From the smiles and sounds and smells within this tiny place on any given night, it looks like the mascaron is doing its job.

While Mascaron is in far too many guidebooks these days for my taste, it remains one of the few Venetian osterie that caters to locals and travelers alike, serving up autentico dishes of the Veneziano style with the freshest fish, crustaceans and shellfish you’ll find here, and to-die-for vegetables grown on the nearby island of San Erasmo.  Everything served here is bought daily from the vendors at the nearby Rialto outdoor fish and vegetable market.  Gigi, Momi and their crew have done a good job of maintaining the integrity of their dishes over the years in this touristy town.  With millions of visitors a year, most food joints in Venice can (and do) serve, well, crap and still the masses line up outside their doors.  Your hosts here will take good care of your taste buds, and while the place isn’t cheap, you’ll experience some of the best local dishes in town.

“You must have our crabs.”  My host Dani is insistent. “Granchio, from the lagoon. They are just in today, first of the season. You will like, I promise.”  When I dine at an osteria lovingly run by a local family, I often let them pick some of my dishes.  They know what’s in season better than I do, and they seem honored when I ask them what they would order themselves. I usually go for grilled local fish from the Venetian lagoon, but he’s not recommending it tonight.  Dani and I bounce back and forth between Italian and English since some of the seafood names are in local Venetian dialect.  Antipasti will be freshly grilled vegetables of the season, and I nod to the wisdom of my host and go for the linguine al granchio as my one and only main dish.  No grilled lagoon fish this time. “Vino?”  Certo.  Della casa, per favore. I order a little red for the antipasti and a little white for the crab. Yes, it’s all sfuso.

Mascaron earned it’s reputation on the quality of its dishes and the convivial, local atmosphere. Tonight is busy, and I’m sitting solo at a table for four. I know this place well, and I’ll soon have dining partners – at least two, and maybe three.  It’s tough to be a loner in a place like this, and sure enough I’m soon sharing my table with a cute German couple on their first trip to Venice.  I can tell they’re overwhelmed, and they’re eying my pasta with crab. “Try the linguine al granchio, you can’t go wrong,” I tell them.  It’s true, this is the sweetest crab meat I have ever tasted, tossed in a light, butter-based sauce and perfectly al dente pasta.  The white sfuso has spent a little time in wood and has a nice floral, buttery taste, pairing well with this remarkably sweet crab.

Dani arrives at my table and beams when he sees I’ve eaten all of my pasta.  “It’s good, eh?”  Buonissimo. I couldn’t eat another bite, though – I’m stuffed. He pays no attention and brings me a small plate of the local “S”-shaped esse cookies made with eggs and vanilla and a touch of anise.  And of course, a glass of local sweet wine to dip them in.  One taste of them and I realize I’ll end up clearing this plate, too.

It’s late and I really should be sleeping after this very long day.  Other than cat naps on the flight over, I’ve been up for 24 hours. I settle up and get ready to head for the door. Dani stops me and thanks me for coming in. “When you come back, ask for me, Dani.  I have more recommendations for you!”   I love Venetian hospitality. “Grazie! Ciao! Buona notte!”

I meander down the darkened corridors and walkways, trying to find my hotel.  Was it this way?  Perhaps I’ve had a bit too much wine.  Venezia at night is wonderfully quiet. The only sound I hear is the distant tap-tap-tap of stiletto heels on cobblestone.  The moon is full and casts a romantic shadow on this watery wonderland.  Che bella Venezia.

Finding Osteria al Mascaron.  Gigi’s place is just off Campo di Santa Maria Formosa, about 50 feet down Calle Longa S.M. Formosa at #5225.  Look for the hanging lantern over the door.  A reservation is a must here most times of the year, but you can try and squeeze in or catch a late dinner slot.  Have your hotel make a prenotazione as soon as you arrive in Venice, this place books up fast.  Your hotel can also provide a map and show you the path through the Venetian maze to Mascaron.  You can try reserving by email, the boys can be reached at info@osteriamascaron.it, or even try FAXing them at +39.041.244.3856.  Dine like the Veneziani and book your dinner reservation for 8PM or later.  Mascaron only takes hard cash, no exceptions, so hit the ATM before you go.  Dinner with antipasti and primi dishes for two will run you about 60 Euros, including sfuso house wine.  Don’t forget to finish your dinner with esse cookies and a little sweet wine to dip them in.  It’s divine.

It’s simply not possible to visit glorious Venezia without a little gastronomic adventure. When I stay in Venice, I prefer to experience the daily rhythm of Italian life off the beaten touristic track. One of my favorite passatempi (pastimes) while in Venice is the nightly Giro di Ombra, the Venetian equivalent of a pub crawl. While the origins of the phrase are debatable, the most plausible explanation is as follows: Years ago a small bar setup in the shadow (the ombra) of the church tower on San Marco square late in the afternoon, just before dinner. The bar served small glasses of wine and tasty local snacks to hungry Venetians on their way home from work. As the sun traversed the sky, the cart would track the shade of the clock tower — hence the phrase giro di ombra, or a “turn of the shadow.”  Works for me!

Modern day Venetians still participate in this age old tradition by visiting the many small, quaint bars called bacari (from the word Bacchus, the Roman god of wine), sprinkled liberally throughout the historic center. Each night small groups of locals (and tourists in the know) travel a circuit of local bars, ordering at each stop an ombra (a small glass of wine) and munch on cicchetti, a small snack that is distinctly Venetian. Cicchetti can be small fried fish, olives stuffed with sausage, baby octopus on a toothpick, or francobolli – tiny postage stamp-sized sandwiches. It’s a pleasant way to loosen up after a long day at work (or shopping).

Traditionally, the wine served as an ombra is sfuso, or loose wine, — think respectable plonk. At most bacari these days you can try dozens of quality wines by the glass for just a few Euros. Your giro di ombra is a great way to inexpensively taste a great many Italian wines, without having to travel to VinItaly.

Side Trip to Culinary Heaven

While Venice is known for many things, haute cuisine is not one of them. Stories abound about the touristy restaurants that are more interested in helping you part with your money than sharing the elegant culinary treasures of the Veneto. I follow three simple rules when it comes to dining in Venice: 1) never eat at a restaurant with multi-lingual menus, 2) don’t eat fish on Sundays or Mondays (the Rialto fish market is closed, so fish dishes aren’t fresh), and 3) find restaurants filled with locals.

To reduce the risk of bombing-out on an evening’s meal in Venice, I always refer to the listings in Osterie d’Italia, a foodie’s dream guidebook to the most genuine and honest restaurants in Italy that cook in the local style. Published and updated annually by the staff at Slow Food, this 800+ page guidebook is your ticket to excellent food and wine in a convivial atmosphere. This year our trusty guide features 8 osterie (small, family-run restaurants) and 13 enoteche (wine bars) in the Venice area, all serving purely local cuisine and featuring wines of the Veneto province and nearby Friuli Venezia-Giulia. Over the years I have dined at them all save one: a small, out-of-the-way restaurant in the city of Mestre where the long causeway connects Venice to the mainland. Frankly, Mestre is not the kind of place you would want to spend time in, but Ostaria da Mariano just might redeem the sprawling industrial town.

On a recent trip to Venezia, my wife and I grabbed a cab at Piazzale Roma and headed for the mainland.  We arrive at Ostaria da Mariano just in time for our 1 PM lunch reservation. The owners greet us warmly and immediately seat us. Not a tourist in the place — score! We settle in for a pleasant 2 hour lunch under the gentle guidance of Antonio and Nadia. Like many genuine osterie, there’s no menu — you eat what’s cooking, which is almost always what is immediately in season. When in doubt, we ask the server which dishes he personally prefers. Today we can count on Antonio to share with us the day’s best from the kitchen.

The prize for the day is the seppie in nero, or braised cuttlefish (think squid) served in a sauce made from its own ink. While it sounds a bit strange, it is a truly fantastic cucina tipica dish from the Veneto region. "We start with an onion soffrito and braise the cuttlefish very slowly, occasionally adding a few tablespoons of water and vegetable broth while it cooks," says Antonio. "As the cuttlefish becomes tender, we add a small pinch of cinnamon and the ink." Served with white polenta made from mais biancaperla, a Slow Food Presidia corn variety, the seppie in nero is out of this world. The black-as-night sauce is rich, round and soft, very earthy while the seppie is tender and delicate. It’s a must-try local staple while visiting Venice.

Leaving our appetites in the caring hands of Antonio, we’re treated to wave after wave of additional Veneto specialties, like pasta e fagioli, baccala mantecato (salt cod in a delicate mayonnaise-like sauce), and sarde in saor (sardines with pickled onions, raisins and pignoli). We close with a dessert of sweet wine and little S-shaped cookies called esse, knock back an espresso, and bid our hosts a gracious thank you for their unending hospitality.

Visiting Ostaria da Mariano. While staying in Venice or if you’re passing through the area, Ostaria da Mariano is an easy and worthwhile stop to satiate your hunger and sample some fine Veneto wines like Valpolicella, Amarone, and other regional specialties. From Venice take a taxi from Piazzale Roma or save a few Euros by taking bus #4 and step off at the Via Ca’ Rossa stop, about 15 minutes. If you’re coming by way of train, stop at the Mestre central train station and take a taxi. They’re located at #49 on via Spalti. Antonio and Nadia can be reached at +39.041.615.427, or via email at da_mariano@libero.it. They’re open for lunch after 12:30P and most evenings. Reservations are recommended, have your hotel make it for you.

Where to stay in Venice. You’ll find a gaggle of fine hotels ranging from € 60 to € 600 sprinkled throughout Venice. Just pick up a reputable guidebook (see my posting Traveling the Italian Wine Route, Part 1: Planning Your Trip for recommendations) and select one that meets your financial and location needs. We like to stay with our friends Roberto and Piero who run Pensione Guerrato, a small 600 year-old hotel just off of the Rialto bridge and a stone’s throw from the Rialto fish and produce market that teems with locals Monday through Saturday mornings. Roberto and Piero also rent small apartments if you’d prefer to live come locali (like a local) while you stay. You can reach Roberto and Piero via email or phone them at +39.041.528.5927.

Have a Question or Comment?

Know a good place to stay or visit while in Venice? Have a favorite story or experience to share from a recent trip? Join the conversation and don’t be bashful, we’d love to hear your thoughts. If you have a question about Italian wine, food or travel, ask away.

If you like this Wine Journal posting, please share it with friends.

Ciao!
Michael

One of the things I love about Italy are the diverse, highly localized flavors and tastes one finds while exploring this ancient peninsula. In Italy there is no such thing as "Italian food," all dishes are highly localized.  Remarkably, you will find differences within a province or even between nearby towns.  Of course, wines vary dramatically up and down the peninsula, but what has delighted me in my search for unique, artisanal products is the variety of local liquors and sweet wines you will find.  I make a point to bring back something truly local to the region I’m visiting, perhaps a bitter-sweet aperativo or an herby digestivo.

Enter Monte Valentino, a tiny boutique dessert wine producer nestled up in the rugged mountains of Umbria.  On a winter wine scouting trip with Arnaldo Rossi, my Sommelier buddy in Cortona, he told me about this molto particolare (very unusual) red sweet wine that is infused with the fruit of the visciolo tree.  So began my trek to a remote post deep in the heart of Umbria.

Making the Trek

"You won’t make it up the hill. We’ll have to pick you up at the train station," says Fabrizia Gargano, the co-proprietor of Monte Valentino, an exquisite little agriturismo (an Italian B&B) that produces the wonderful sweet Visciole cherry wine called Sollucchero, which translates literally as “I become enraptured”.  Once you taste Sollucchero, you’ll understand why.

Monte Valentino is a 300+ year old borgo nestled in the verdant Umbrian hills just north of Perugia.  But in late January, we’re greeted with a blanket of snow that highlights the dormant cherry trees as Nicola Polchi, Fabrizia’s husband, navigates his Land Rover up the steep single lane road from the valley below. I’m glad I’m not driving. The views are stunning on the way up, but enjoying the scenery while driving could prove fatal.

With roots dating back to the days of the Dukes of Urbino, Fabrizia and Nicola restored this small borgo in 1996 with an eye toward living a life immersed in the beauty of a natural and wild Umbria. In addition to producing Sollucchero wine, each year they open their home to travelers looking to experience a region rich with history yet a bit off the beaten track.

While Nicola spends much of his time in the winter months finely crafting handsome furniture made from oak and walnut from the nearby forests, he is always ready to describe the process of making Sollucchero and take you on a tour of the cantina. "Fabrizia and I hand collect the Visciole cherries at their peak of sugar production, which is in early July when the cherry skins just start to wrinkle." Nicola is quick to tell us that they macerate the bitter cherries and blend with a base of Rosso Orvietano wine the same day to ensure the rich, spicy essence of the visciole cherry is captured by the wine.  The wine spends several months in cold fermentation and is finally filtered and blended with a bit of alcohol and a touch of sugar to offset the bitterness of the Visciole.  "We then bottle the wine and let it age for 9 months before releasing it," says Nicola.  "The wine never touches oak, but this year we will be experimenting with aging some of the Sollucchero production in oak casks to see what it can offer to the wine."

Visciole cherries are unlike anything we Americans are used to. Not quite a pie cherry, and certainly not like the sweet cherries we eat by the fistful in the late spring, Visciole cherries are quite small and exceptionally tart.  The Visciola cherry tree grows wild and its cultivation was a favorite of the Italian contadini, or rural peasant farmers of the past.  Fabrizia and Nicola have taken the wonderful wild, spicy Visciole to a new level with their exquisite Sollucchero.

Tasting Notes: Monte Valentino Sollucchero NV

Sollucchero has a lovely ruby red color with highlights of purple, both clear and bright. The nose is delightful with jammy black fruits, wild strawberry, dried rose flowers and a pronounced pie-cherry scent from the Visciole cherries. On the palate the sweetness is lighter than many typical dessert wines. The fruits found on the nose come through intensely on the palate; blackberry and black cherry, dried flowers and toasted almond with a nice acidity that balances with the sweetness. The flavors persist with a long, pleasant finish. While Sollucchero has 16 degrees of alcohol, it is not overpowering or ‘hot’ in the mouth. The nose and flavors close down when it’s served cold, so Sollucchero s best served at room temperature.

Food Pairing with Sollucchero

Sollucchero is heavenly by itself as a dessert wine shared with friends at the end of a long meal, but its sweet spiciness goes particularly well with blue-veined cheeses like gorgonzola, stilton or the wonderful Crater Lake Blue from The Rogue Creamery. Sollucchero is also out of this world with dark chocolate and wonderful drizzled on vanilla gelato.

You can read more about the origins of Monte Valentino Sollucchero on Nicola and Fabrizia’s website here.

In Rapture for Sweet Wines?

Want to share your favorite dessert wine from Italy?  Looking for pointers on how to locate other special Italian wines and spirits?  Join the conversation and don’t be bashful, we’d love to hear your thoughts and questions. If you have a question about Italian wine, food or travel, ask away.  I’ll do my best to answer your questions.

If you like this Wine Journal posting, please share it with friends.

Ciao!
Michael

This is the third part in a 3-part series on how to plan and travel well during your next trip to Italy.

Think Local.  Eat local.

When you’re traveling in Italy, eating the local cuisine will be a memorable highlight of your trip if you know where to look.  Italian food evolved regionally, and there are few dishes that truly span the entire peninsula.  Sure, pizza can be found everywhere, but you haven’t lived until you’ve tried the real thing at da Michele in Naples.  And ragù Bolognese meat sauce is superbo in Emilia Romagna, and an abomination in Venice.   Go local — you will be much more satisfied eating the cucina tipica of the area.

While much of French cuisine can be about butter-based sauces served over rather complex dishes, the Italians take a more purist approach.  An Italian chef worth his salt lets the ingredients speak for themselves, using only the freshest ingredients prepared in the most simple way.  For example, the Tuscans adore the dreamy Pappa al Pomodoro,

a soup prepared from diced tomato, a little ground onion, carrot and celery, and some olive oil — with a few stale bread cubes added at the end of the cooking.  In Puglia, a simple dish of boiled and puréed fava beans with olive oil makes me swoon.  And the Gnocchi con Pesto along the Cinque Terre in Liguria shows just how much you can do with a few potatoes, some basil, garlic, pine nuts and a little olive oil.  Simple and humble ingredients that sing in harmony when brought together.

Finding the best local food. Some of my fondest travel memories in Italy center on intimate meals shared with friends at small Italian osterie and trattorie that are off the touristic track.  When we travel, we always carry a current copy of Osterie d’Italia, a foodie’s dream guidebook to the most genuine and honest restaurants that cook in the local style. Published and updated annually by the staff at Slow Food, this 800+ page guidebook is your ticket to excellent food and wine in a convivial atmosphere.  While the book is written in Italian, anyone can find the top osterie, trattorie and enoteche in every region in this book, with a listing of their local specialties and easy contact information.  I recommend that you buy the guidebook online at the Slow Food Italy website, or you can try to find a copy at a bookstore while you’re in Italy (N.B.: this book sells out every year. I am looking into how to source the book from Slow Food directly to the states; if you’re interested in buying a copy annually, leave a comment below).

Another very useful guide for Italian food enthusiasts is the Ristorante d’Italia annual dining guide.  Published by Gambero Rosso in Italy (the same folks who bring you the Italian Wines annual guide), this book offers a numerical rating system that helps you find some of Italy’s top-rated restaurants.  With top ratings come top prices, so if you’re not in the mood to drop $100 per person on a magnificent meal, use your Osterie d’Italia guide to find superb local cuisine at reasonable prices.

When dining out in Italy, here are a few recommendations that will make your meals more pleasant:

• Make a reservation. The restaurants found in Osterie d’Italia and Ristorante d’Italia are justly famous with the locals.  To ensure that you have a seat, it’s best to make a reservation.  You can have your hotel make the call for you.
• Eat like an Italian. Meal times vary up and down the peninsula, but the only people eating lunch at noon and dinner at 6PM are the tourists.  Dine like an Italian and enjoy a long lunch starting at 1PM, and dinner at 8 or 9PM.  For breakfast, have a cappuccino and a small pastry.  And remember that in Italy it’s a brutta figura (bad form) to drink a cappuccino or caffe latte after 11AM.
• Try the local specialty. If you’re not sure what to order, let the waiter or chef (who are sometimes one and the same) select for you.  Teresa and I regularly let the house order for us — they know what’s in season and ideal at the particular time of year you are visiting.  We’ve never been disappointed.

Blissful travel.

When you travel, be sure to immerse yourself in the daily rhythm of life in Italy.  Take your morning cappuccino and cornetto (croissant) at the corner bar with the locals.  Try an assaggio (small tasting) of wines at a local enoteca and marvel at how the wine communicates the essence of a small patch of land and the caring hand of its maker.  Sample what’s in season at a family owned osteria and say hello to the nonna in the kitchen who is sharing her prized family recipes with you.  Savor the magic of the moment.

Buon viaggio!

You can find Part 1 here: Pick the best Italy travel itinerary and guidebooks during your travel planning.

And Part 2 is here:  Wine Tasting at Your Favorite Italian Producers.

Have a favorite place in Italy?

Do you have a special restaurant, location, or foodie tip you’d like to share with us?   Join the conversation and don’t be bashful, we’d love to hear your thoughts. If you have a question about Italian wine, food or travel, ask away.

If you like this Wine Journal posting, please share it with friends.

Ciao!
Michael

This is the second part in a 3-part series on how to plan and travel well during your next trip to Italy

Finding and Tasting Wines in Bella Italia.

Tasting a selection of regional wines is one of the greatest joys when traveling in Italy. Finding an unusual Dolcetto d’Alba or a delightful Brunello di Montalcino from a small, out of the way producer can be a highlight of your trip. How you pursue your tasting goals depends upon your mobility and level of interest in the producers.

One of the best ways to taste many wines from different producers is by visiting an enoteca, or wine bar. There are two kinds of enoteche: regionally-sponsored exhibitions of wine like the Enoteca Italiana in Siena, or the local enoteca wine bars where locals congregate to savor a glass of wine and perhaps a small plate of local salumi e formaggi. For selection, ambiance and intimacy, I recommend local enoteche.

Finding an enoteca. The enoteca-style wine bar scene in Italy is exploding. You’ll find dozens sprinkled throughout major cities like Venice, Florence and Rome, and many chic hill towns will have enoteche popular with the locals and travelers in-the-know.

For example, Pane e Vino in Cortona, Tuscany (Piazza Signorelli #27, Tele: +39 0575.631.010, taverna@pane-vino.it), offers a weekly selection of 20 wines for tasting from their collection of over 900 Italian wines, including a wild selection of new biodinamico (bio-dynamic) wines. Arnaldo Rossi, Dall’Uva’s resident Sommelier in Tuscany, and his wife Debora offer a warm, convivial atmosphere to sample some of the best wines from the Italian peninsula.  The wines are intelligently paired with Tuscan small-plates of antipasti, primi and a few secondi lovingly prepared by Beatrice in the kitchen. As an American traveling in Italy there are only two ways to learn about these prized finds: by word of mouth from people in-the-know (and from the Dall’Uva Wine Journal), or in the Osterie d’Italia culinary guidebook from the Slow Food people in Torino (see my listing of must-have food & wine travel guidebooks below).

Visiting the producers. If you’re enthralled with the romance of visiting wine producers at the source, forget what you know about the jazzy tasting rooms at American wineries.  Most producers will have at best a small tasting room where you can sample their latest bottling and buy a few bottles portar via (for the road). To ensure that someone is available to meet you when you arrive, you must always call in advance to make a reservation.  As a quid pro quo for taking time out of their busy schedule to meet you, most producers will expect you to purchase some wine while you’re there.  While all of this may seem like a lack of enthusiasm for wine lovers, producers in Italy simply do not see the same tasting crowds that we find here in the States, and they would rather spend their time (and money) making better wines for you to enjoy.

To make a reservation at a winery, simply call a day in advance or send an email informing them of when you would like to visit.  When planning your trip, I recommend that you consult the wine rating guidebook Italian Wines co-published by Gambero Rosso and Slow Food. In addition to listings of the current wines from thousands of producers, you’ll find wine ratings (the famed one-, two- and three-glasses, or bicchieri), intimate background information about the producers, and their addresses, telephone numbers and often their email and website addresses.  Buy a copy online here at Amazon.com, or pick up a copy while you’re in Italy at most bookstores. If you’re a wine zealot like me, you can pick up next year’s Italian-only edition in October or November online at the slowfood.it website. The English version of the guide is released in January.

Some producers have tasting rooms that are located in nearby town centers. For example, Avignonesi produces superb Vino Nobile and knockout Super Tuscans, but you’ll need to travel to the center of Montepulciano if you want to taste their wines in their tasting room. These wonderful tasting options are somewhat rare, so if your itinerary includes visiting wineries at the source, make sure you have a rental car and a good local map (book a rental car with a no-nonsense, all-inclusive rate at SkyCars).

Bringing your wine home safely. If you plan on bringing some treasured bottles of wine back to the States, it’s pretty straightforward as long as you know how to handle packing, airlines, and US customs. Here are a few things you should know:

• How many bottles can I bring home? Technically speaking, you can bring any number of cases of wine home with you for personal use only (see the ATF website for the gory details).  If you’re bringing home more than 10 cases of wine, US Customs might assume that it’s not for your personal use — have a good story or risk losing it all. If you want to bring wine or spirits into the US for commercial purposes, you’ll need to be licensed like me.
• Can I ship by FedEx, UPS, or DHL? Yes and no, and it’s expensive in all cases. Expect rates for air shipping from Italy to the US to be $200-`$300 per case.  Few shippers will ship wine for consumers (that’s you), so some shipping agents classify it as olive oil to get your wine in ‘under the radar.’  However, the shipper or US Customs will seize and destroy your contraband if they find out.  My recommendation: don’t do it.
• Can I check my wine with the airline as baggage? Yes, and this is the only practical option for getting your wine home safely and quickly.  Simply have your wine bottles packed in Styrofoam inserts and a sturdy box, check it with your luggage and relax knowing it will show up at your destination unbroken.  It’s free up to the airline’s checked bag or weight limit, then typically $90/case after that.  Good wine shops in Italy sell the inserts and shipping boxes, and you can find them at Mail Boxes Etc.  Alternatively, buy them in the States before you leave and bring them with you as empty checked baggage.  When you check in, show the agent how well you’ve packed your bottles if they have any concerns about checking the wine.  And never try to check loose cases of wine — airlines won’t let you, and even if they do the bottles will break and you may be liable for that lovely red stain all over the other passengers’ suit cases and clothing.
• Can I just stick my bottles in my bag and check it? Well, yes, but this is a bit tricky. I’ve done it, but I don’t recommend it. You need to wrap your bottles in bubble wrap or several layers of clothing, then ensure it’s in the center of your suitcase. You run the risk of the bottles breaking, which will be a very unpleasant surprise when you arrive at baggage claim.
• Can I carry my wine on-board? Nope, not any more. I used to carry up to 6 bottles as carry-on luggage per person, but that’s no longer an option with today’s security measures.
• How do I clear US Customs? When you arrive at the first US port, you have to clear Immigration and US Customs.  Simply mark your Immigration Landing Card s ‘carrying food’ and tell the agent that you have wine. They’re going to ask anyway, so tell them exactly how many bottles or cases you have. Don’t try and be cute or sneaky about it, or they may seize your wine. If you are asked to pay duty taxes (technically, you should), don’t worry — it’s less than 50 cents/bottle for most wine.  Keep your story simple: you’re bringing wine home for your own personal consumption, and you won’t sell or give it away.

Bringing a special or prized wine home from Italy is one of the best ways to relive the wonderful memories you build while in bella Italia. If you’re prepared and use the ideas and suggestions in this article, it will be a snap and you’ll have your wine safely home in no time. Cin cin!

Next in part 3: Eat like an Italian and find the best ristoranti, trattorie and osterie in Italy

Missed part 1? Pick the best Italy travel itinerary and guidebooks during your travel planning.

Bringing wines home from Italy this year?

Any particular producers you’re interested in bringing home?  Have some helpful hints from your own experiences?  Need more help on finding a wine?   Join the fun, we’d love to hear your thoughts. If you have a question about Italian wine, food or travel, ask away.

If you like this Wine Journal posting, please share it with friends.

Ciao!
Michael

This is the first part in a 3-part series on how to plan and travel well during your next trip to Italy

Gastronomic ecstasy in Bella Italia

As a frequent traveler to Italy, I’m often asked for advice by new travelers  on where to go and how best to experience Italy and its food and wines.   Traveling well in Italy, something the Italians call viaggiarbene, is both immensely pleasurable and easy to do — if you plan a bit before you go. Having traveled to Italy over 50 times in the past 15 years, I’ve accumulated some helpful ideas and travel tips that save time and multiply the pleasurable moments of a trip. And since Dall’Uva is all about the pleasure of experiencing artisan wines and connecting you with passionate producers, I’m pleased to share my recommendations on how to maximize the magic of your next trip to Italy.

To be sure, Italy holds the western world’s largest store of cultural treasures.  You can spend countless hours exploring the Uffizi Gallery in Florence, the Vatican Museum in Rome, and the Pompeii exhibit in Naples — and you should. But I find exploring the Italy of today, including its rich gastronomic culture, to be more satisfying to the soul. If you want to explore the culinary treasures of Italy as they were meant to be and bypass the manufactured experience most tourists settle for, print out this blog posting and carry a few of my recommendations with you as you travel.  I believe you’ll be much more sensually satisfied.

Know before you go.

Traveling to regions that are new to you requires a bit of advance planning if you want to maximize your pleasure while you’re there. All that’s needed is a good map, a travel guide you can trust, and a fine glass of Brunello (a Mastrojanni Brunello 2004 will do) to put you in the mood.

Guidebooks. If you know which cities you’re flying into and out of, and how many days you plan to spend, mapping out an exploration path will depend on what you want to see.  Spend some time reviewing a good regional travel guidebook that is updated annually.  I find the Frommer’s Italy country guide, and their regional books like Frommer’s Northern Italy quite useful. A particular favorite of mine, the Rick Steves’ Italy guidebooks offer an opinionated summary of the best cultural stops in the major regions. Other good guidebooks include the Lonely Planet Italy country guide, and the Authentic Italy series of guide books by the Touring Club of Italy. For food and wine guidebooks, see my recommendations below.

Maps. To help you gauge the distance between your planned stops, pick up a good 200,000 : 1 or better touring map (the lower the first number, the more detailed the map).  My favorite is the Atlante Stradale d’Italia series of maps from the Touring Club of Italy, but they can be tough to find outside of Italy (I buy mine along the A1 Autostrada from Rome to Florence at one of the many Autogrill rest stops). The next best option is

the Michelin Italy Tourist & Motoring Atlas. Since I drive during most of my visits, I recommend the spiral bound regional books. If you just can’t find these super useful map books, you can always pick up a regional fold-out map like the Michelin Italy North-West Map, but these are a pain to use in the car unless you have a sidekick with you in the front passenger seat doing the navigating.

You’ll find an overwhelming selection of guidebooks and maps at most larger bookstores. If you can buy them locally, do it. My favorite bookstore in Portland, Oregon is Powell’s Books in downtown Portland. Practically speaking, you can get just about anything you want from Amazon.com for a fair price, and it’s the best option if you need something quickly or something unusual like the above mentioned maps and guide books.

Itinerary Planning. My best recommendation when selecting sites to visit is this: Assume that you will return to Italy in the future. Be careful not to overbook your time; racing from site to site is not a vacation. Be sure to allocate plenty of time to relax over a fine meal each day.  Block out timeslots reserved for no particular activity and savor the uniquely Italian experience of la dolce far niente (the sweetness of doing nothing). You’ll be more refreshed and satisfied while building pleasant memories that last a lifetime.

Next in Part 2: Wine Tasting at Your Favorite Italian Producers.

Looking for Travel Planning Advice?

Do you have an upcoming trip to Italy and are looking for recommendations on places to see and visit?  Have a favorite story or experience to share from a recent trip? Join the conversation and don’t be bashful, we’d love to hear your thoughts. If you have a question about Italian wine, food or travel, ask away.

If you like this Wine Journal posting, please share it with friends.

Ciao!
Michael

Lentement at Navarre

"We started with a vision of creating a convivial atmosphere where people can be real," says John Taboada, owner and chef at Navarre in southeast Portland, Oregon. Named after a small area in Gascony near the Pyrenees in France, Navarre has garnered a bit of a cult following in town. Promoting a European style of tapas bars and enoteche, the word is out that you can find extraordinarily tasty pan-Mediterranean plates paired with wonderful wines by the glass — all in a convivial, light atmosphere. John has created a focal point for warm gatherings of friends and co-workers who want to enjoy il dolce far niente (the sweetness of doing nothing).

"At a typical restaurant, the meal has a common progression: appetizers or a salad followed by a main course, dessert, and perhaps an after-dinner coffee. It’s tough for friends to join you at dinner if they’re not there from the start," says John. "At Navarre, we want people to be able to come and go seamlessly, allowing their friends to join in the meal whenever they wish. We think of it as eating laterally." Indeed, Navarre’s menu is structured as a checklist of selections from simple appetizers to more complex European regional dishes.  Akin to a sushi ordering sheet, you’re presented with a rich selection of small and large plates to choose from, including a half dozen nightly specials as well. Just check off the items on the menu sheet (or write in a special) and hand it to your server. You’re handed a fresh menu list to use again on your progression through an unlimited number of courses, or even backtrack if you find an item you adore.

Navarre’s unique style lets you go regional in your dining. John explains: "If you’re a fan of French food you can dine French: select the cabbage gratin (see John’s recipe below), the radishes and butter, or the country pork paté. The table next to you might be enjoying Spanish cuisine with a terrine of ham, potato and cheese, or oysters and chorizo. Fans of Italy can select boar stew with chocolate, grilled flank steak, or a special polenta dish. We even offer quintessential American dishes like Tennessee barbeque ribs and corned beef. It’s totally up to the table to choose where they wish to dine that evening."

Navarre is by no means a vegetarian restaurant, but John lights up when we talk produce — and it’s easy to understand why after you’ve experienced the intensity of flavor in his cabbage gratin or braised greens. "We’re fanatical about sourcing fresh in-season produce," says John. "It’s all about eating in tune with the seasons. We’ve partnered with Laura Masterson at 47th Avenue Farms and virtually all of our produce comes from their local Community Sustainable Agriculture farm. Each week they bring us the in-season harvest and we adapt our menu accordingly." In the spirit of the Slow Food movement, John and Laura’s partnership is beneficial for everyone: Laura has a guaranteed market for her produce, John gets the best local in-season vegetables, and Navarre customers experience the most flavorful and healthful dishes around.

The thoughtful wine list is organized by terroir, from north to south. You’ll find wines from Oregon, Spain, Italy, France and even a unique wine from Mexico (and you thought that Fountains of Wayne song about Mexican Wine was a joke). "We offer 60 wines by the glass, 1/4 carafe, 1/2 carafe and by the bottle," notes John. "We don’t want to limit people in their choices. You can select a wine for pairing with the menu items as you see fit. And if you’re not sure what to select, you can experiment by trying several wines in progression. It’s a great opportunity to play with different wines you may be unfamiliar with." For those looking for a helpful hint, John’s staff can offer thoughtful suggestions on wine pairing.

Complimenting the easygoing staff and atmosphere is a minimalist space with a modern industrial feel, but with tables and seating arranging to heighten intimacy. It’s the perfect place to while away the hours over warm conversation, exceptional food and wines that surprise and delight.

Finding Navarre. Navarre serves dinner nightly from 5:30 until 11:00. You’ll find them at 10 NE 28th, right off Burnside in Portland, Oregon (+1.503.232.3555). Navarre doesn’t take reservations, so you may want to drop in a bit early or plan to take a glass of wine at the bar until your table is ready — patience that will be well rewarded. Recommended parking is behind the restaurant in the Wild Oats Market parking lot.  For the latest goings-on at Navarre, check out their blog here.

Recipe: John Taboada’s Cabbage Gratin

John Taboada’s superb Cabbage Gratin is one of his signature dishes. Teresa and I adore it. Pair it with a simply roasted bird or grilled flank steak. Serves 8 people.

Ingredients:

Preparation:

1. Preheat your oven to 350 degrees.
2. Core and quarter the cabbage and blanch briefly in boiling salted water. Drain the blanched cabbage quarters, then remove the white leaves and set them aside on a plate.
3. In a bowl large enough to hold the grated cheese, mix the cheese and the heavy cream, reserving about 3 tablespoons of the cream for later. Add salt to taste (about 1/2 teaspoon) and a liberal grinding of fresh black pepper.
4. Place a layer of cabbage leaves to the bottom of a 10" x 10" oven-proof baking dish, covering it completely. Add a layer of the cheese and cream mixture on top of the leaves. Repeat this process until the baking dish is filled with the layered cabbage and cheese mixture. You should have from 4 to 8 layers in the dish. Finish the top layer with cabbage leaves and cover it with the remaining cream and melted butter.
5. Bake the gratin for 45 minutes in the preheated oven, or until the top of the gratin is browned. Once browned, remove the gratin from the oven and let set for 10 minutes, then serve.

Wine Pairing. The gratin dish is wonderfully rich and will want a bright, somewhat tannic wine like the Molino di Grace Chianti Classico 2004, or pair it with its close Sangiovese cousin, Vino Nobile, from the hill town of Montepulciano. I like the Avignonesi Vino Nobile 2006 as a good match for this dish and John’s wild boar dish.

Share your favorite foodie spots.

Do you know a special Portland restaurant, location, or foodie tip you’d like to share with us?  How about San Francisco? New York? Chicago? Join the conversation and don’t be bashful, we’d love to hear your thoughts.

If you like this Wine Journal posting, please share it with friends.

Ciao!
Michael

Tasting Notes from Italy

Traveling down the 2-lane road from Montalcino to the village of Castelnuovo dell’Abate, I am stunned by the beauty of the area. It’s September and well tended rows of Brunello grapes line both sides of the road, waiting patiently for harvest after the hot summer. Acting on a tip from Arnaldo Rossi, my Sommelier buddy based in Cortona, I’m in search of a Brunello di Montalcino to bring home to Portland. The family estate of Mastrojanni is my destination.

The Brunello di Montalcino DOCG wine region is centered on the famed hill town of Montalcino known for its rich, powerful red wines made from Sangiovese Grosso grapes. The wine estate of the Mastrojanni family is located on the southeast side near the village of Castelnuovo dell’Abate. Stopping in the village to take in the view of the valley and nearby Mount Amiata, I hear the gentle prayer song of Gregorian Chant drifting up from below. The monks at the 12th century Abbey of Sant’Antimo grace the valley and nearby hills with their peaceful chant at regular intervals through the day.

"You’ve caught us during the harvest," says Andrea Machetti, as I pull up at the classic Tuscan stone house now used for their operations. I know exactly what that means — it’s an exceptionally busy time for the family and hired hands who help with the vendemmia, or grape harvest, and I fear I may be more of an nuisance than a guest. Yet, Andrea graciously accepts my visit with a hearty handshake and quickly proceeds to tell me about the history of the place.

"The Mastrojanni family dates back centuries, but they settled this knoll for Brunello production in 1975," says Andrea. "We were fortunate. The southeast exposure is superb, the micro-climate is uniquely influenced by nearby Mount Amiata, and the soils are rich in gravel and clay. It’s hard to imagine a better place to grow the Brunello clone (Sangiovese Grosso)." I ask half-joking whether the nearby Abbey influences the wine, or just the winemaker. He laughs, "We believe that the terroir has a tremendous influence on the wine. Everything around us finds its way into the grapes. Perhaps the serenity of the sound of the Chant translates into the wine." After tasting a few of their offerings, I’m a believer.

Mastrojanni offers a blockbuster collection of reds and a fantastic sweet wine in the Vin Santo (laterally translation: Holy Wine) style. Their Brunello di Montalcino 2004 has a deep, concentrated garnet red color with a classic Brunello nose of tobacco, pepper, ripe black cherry and even a touch of roasted chestnut. With the presence of well-integrated tannins, this wine will lay down well in your cellar and be optimal for drinking in 2011-2020 — but don’t hesitate to open a bottle today to enjoy with a good lamb stew or Bistecca Fiorentina. 2004 was a blockbuster year for Brunello, and at $40-50 retail, this Brunello is a steal.

My favorite Mastrojanni red for drinking now is their fantastic Rosso di Montalcino 2007 a ready-to-drink Sangiovese that delivers the true essence of the Montalcino area on the nose and palate. Lots of earthy notes with black cherry and fresh violets, the wine soars on the palate with a silky texture and just the right amount of acidity and tannin. Priced around $20 retail, this is the best Rosso I’ve tasted in years. Pair this young but sturdy wine with game meats, grilled lamb like agnello scottadito(see our recipe below), and aged sheep’s milk cheeses like Pecorino di Pienza.

For Cabernet Sauvignon lovers, Mastrojanni has released an elegant blend of Sangiovese and Cab with their Super Tuscan San Pio 2004. What a knockout. With an intensely perfumed nose of leather and concentrated black and berry fruits, the wine immediately draws you in. Very smooth tannins make this wine ready to drink today, and will cellar well for years. You’ll find it for about 28 bucks retail. Try it with beef, wild boar or venison spiedini (kebabs).

Completing the lineup is the glorious Botrys 1999 sweet wine made from Moscato Bianco and Malvasia di Candia varietals. A rich, warming dessert wine with wonderful notes of figs, dates, candied orange rind and saffron on the nose. Sweet and enveloping on the palate, Botrys is a pleasant finish for a special meal with friends. Priced at about $45 retail for a 375 ml bottle, Botrys is heavenly when served with marbled cheeses like Crater Lake Blue from The Rogue Creamery.  (Update from Michael: this elegant vin santo is in sort supply and difficult to find; I was only able to secure a few half-cases, which were quickly snapped up by retail shops in Portland, Oregon. Leave a comment below if you’d like to be contacted when I can obtain more.)

Visiting Mastrojanni. The drive to Mastrojanni leaves me in a blissful state of mind. Located just 9 km from Montalcino, yet deep in the true heart of Tuscany, a visit to Mastrojanni and the nearby Abbey of Sant’Antimo will calm your soul and make you a believer.  To find Mastrojanni, just follow the signs from Montalcino to the village of Castelnuovo dell’Abate, then follow the signs to Mastrojanni. Be sure to contact Andrea Machetti in advance to schedule a time to visit; you can reach him at +39 0577.835.681. Need a place to use as your home base while exploring nearby Brunello and Vino Nobile wineries? Consider Vecchia Oliviera, a charming 3 star hotel right at the gates of Montalcino (tele: +39.0577.846.028, email: info@vecchiaoliviera.com).

Seasonal Recipes

Fall grilling – Agnello Scottadito

On our grand Veneto-to-Puglia exploration of Italy a few years ago, Teresa and I had the great fortune to find ourselves in the small town of Norcia, nestled deep in the verdant forests of southeastern Umbria, just before the lunch hour.  Norcia is the home of all things pork and is best known for its wild boar, porcini mushrooms and truffles — all hunted and collected in the nearby forests.  Norcia is just across the border from the Italian province of Abruzzo where lamb dishes have been elevated to an art form.

As we mill around the ancient cobblestone roads of the centro storico in search of a local trattoria, we happen across a small restaurant with a dozen small tables.  Since it is only noon, the trattoria is empty but the owner greets us and asks if we would like to make a reservation.  As we book our lunch for one o’clock, I can’t help but notice the sounds and smells drifting from the kitchen just off the main room.  We peek around the corner in hopes of a glimpse of what’s on today’s menu.  We are immediately coaxed into the kitchen by a little nonna in her seventies, obviously the matriarch of the establishment, busy chopping up a whole lamb freshly butchered.  A wood fire blazes in the oven and the smells of rich pasta sauces permeate the room. Whack! "You are joining us for lunch?"  We nod a simple yes, our eyes bulging in astonishment as the nonna’s strength.  "Agnello Scottadito!"  Whack!  "It’s the best!"  Who are we to disagree with the wisdom of the ages?  We return at our assigned time and are treated to the most succulent lamb chops we’ve ever tasted, served still sizzling only moments away from the wood fired grill.

Recipe: Agnello Scottadito, or "Burn your Fingers" Lamb

Agnello (an-YELL-oh), or young lamb, has its prime season in the spring in Italy, largely because they prefer young lamb that is 8 to 16 weeks old.  Here in the States, local lamb shows up in the fall after they’ve had a chance to grow for 5 or 6 months.  This old world recipe for grilled lamb works fine with our American lamb chops.

While you can cook these chops in a pan or over a gas barbeque, grilling over wood or hardwood charcoal is the best.  Grilling alla brace (over coals) lends a heavenly taste that is incomparable.  Serves 6 people.

Ingredients:

Preparation:

1. Prepare a marinade by mixing the oil, rosemary leaves, and garlic in a small mixing bowl.  Spread the mixture on both sides of the chops and set them in a small, shallow pan.  Pour any remaining marinade over the chops in the pan.  It’s best to let the chops rest in your refrigerator for several hours or even overnight, but it’s not absolutely necessary.
2. When you’re ready to grill, fire up your charcoal or cooking wood.  I personally prefer apple or cherry wood, but oak or even chestnut works well.
3. When the fire is ready and the coals are glowing, set the grill over the heat for a few minutes.  Place the chops on the hot grill and let them cook for a couple of minutes, then flip them and grill the other side.  Sprinkle a little salt and a generous grinding of fresh black pepper on the chops.  I recommend that you cook the meat medium-rare for the best flavor and tenderness — typically about 3-5 minutes, depending upon how hot the fire is and the thickness of the chops.
4. Scottadito means "burned fingers", and that’s how you should serve the chops.  When they’re ready, take them immediately from the grill to the table and enjoy.  Using your fingers makes them taste better.

Brunello fan?  What’s your favorite?

The Brunello wines of Montalcino show off the best of what can be done with the noble Sangiovese Grosso clone.  Do you have a favorite from the region?  Biondi Santi?  Siro Pacenti?  Tells about your likes and dislikes, share with the rest of the Italian wine enthusiasts – we’d love to hear your thoughts.

If you like this Wine Journal posting, please share it with friends.

Ciao!
Michael