I’m a big fan of the Dolcetto wines of Piemonte, particularly from around the quaint and tiny town of Dogliani. I’ve always enjoyed Papa Celso from Abbona, a perennial 3 Bicchieri, but there are so many more interesting Dolcetto wines from Dogliani, Diano d’Alba, Alba & even in Liguria.
In a region where Nebbiolo rules, it’s refreshing to find less expensive and friendly Dolcetto wines widely available here in the States.
Eric Asimov is a no-nonsense wine critic with the New York Times who has a special place in his heart for Italian wines. His ode to Dolcetto “A Shy Italian, Made for Everyday” is a pleasant read with a listing of 10 Dolcetto wines for under 25 bucks. Check it out.
A Shy Italian, Made for Everyday
Published: January 3, 2013
WHAT is greatness? When that question is asked about wine, it sometimes is answered too narrowly.
With food, most people recognize that all sorts of meals can satisfy and delight. A magnificent feast at a culinary temple does not cloud the ability to appreciate the pleasure of a perfect hamburger, or a chicken judiciously salted and well roasted.
A great novel does not diminish the enjoyment of a well-turned historical romance. Nor does a cinematic triumph demean a good thriller. While acknowledging a hierarchy of genres, excellence is excellence.
Yet with wine, we sometimes overlook a mountain of potential pleasures for the peak experience. I know more than a few people who believe that if a wine is not a benchmark bottle — a top Burgundy, Bordeaux or the equivalent — it’s not worth drinking…
Michael Horne, CS
Los Gatos, CA USA